Once you have fitted your muslin and made the necessary changes, you can start cutting your fabric. I’m using bias-cut satin and stretch lace for mine, with organic cotton jersey for the crotch lining. When using woven, non-stretch fabric for the front and back panels, I’ve found that fabrics like satin, woven fabrics blended with spandex, and looser-weave fabrics work best, as opposed to a tight weave like broadcloth.
Pin your side front seam to your center front panel, easing the curves together. Easing is a technique used in setting in sleeves, and sewing opposite curves together. Essentially, you need to fit a larger line onto a shorter line, without any puckers. The start and end of your seam should match up without any overhang. I’ve added 3/8″ seam allowance to this pattern.
Sew and finish all four seams. I am overlocking mine, but you can zig-zag, or pink your edges. I would not recommend a french or bound seam as it will be too bulky. My sewing machine comes with a faux-overlock stitch that works great.
Now you have all four vertical seams sewn, and the crotch seam is left open. Press your seams and try it on to make sore you don’t need to make any adjustments to the with.
1 Comment
Ana
March 23, 2014 at 4:03 pmAny tips for easing those curves? I don't know why I'm having such a hard time, it's not like I haven't sewn princess seams before. I'm using stretch polyester satin, and even with a row of stitches to slightly gather the longer side AND careful basting… the seam puckers!