Sew 1/2″ away from the raw edge. I’m straight stitching mine.
Any time you sew a seam that curves out, you always have to notch your seam allowance, so that when you press your seam allowance open, you avoid any extra bulk.
Once you have assembled both cups, sew them together down the centre seam. To ensure that the horizontal lines running across the bust match up, I often place them together (right sides together), and make a small tack on the sewing machine, through the seam that I want to match up. I find this works better than pins, because pins can slip. This is an easy way to get seams that match up, every time.
After you have sewing your lining and your self, and notched your seam allowance, using a pressing ham, press your seams open.
Now we are sewing our cups to our lining. Mine sit about 1″ up from my raw edge at the end, and about 1/2″ up from my raw edge, towards the middle of the cup. I want to avoid getting the cup stuck in the seam where the body of the swim suit gets stitched on. This is why I have placed it here.
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