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sarah norwood

Floral and Lace

Design Diary, Lingerie, Uncategorized August 14, 2017

I received this fabric from Spoonflower as part of a creative collaboration for Wedding Month. 

I’ve had my eye on this large scale peony print by Gabby Malpas for a while now. It’s so fresh and feels both classic and modern at the same time.

For this bridal-inspired lingerie set I used my Ava High Waist Panties  and Romy Bra  sewing patterns. For the bra, I added a high neckline detail using scalloped stretch lace that closes at the neckline with a small silver hook – a little detail that gives the neckline jewelry-esque look.

I wanted to give this set a really special feel, so I lined the cups in the same soft lace I used for the neckline. Now the inside looks just as beautiful as the outside.

This Romy-adaptation took me four attempts to get it just the way I wanted! I did lots of experimenting with the width of the neckline as well as the overall construction. In a little while, I’ll release this adaptation as an add-on to my Romy pattern.

To bring the top and bottom together, I added small pieces of lace along the curved cutout along the hips.

I took a lot of time plotting out my pattern placement. I used a full yard and carefully placed my pattern pieces so to achieve the effect of the flowers gracefully climbing up the sides of the garment.  Since the front and back of the Ava pattern are the largest pattern pieces in this set, I made sure to feature a large flower, asymmetrically placed, to really highlight the beauty of this print.

Spoonflower’s cotton lycra jersey has is a great weight for lingerie – it’s sturdy and has lots of give making this set as comfortable as it is pretty!

 

Beyond the lingerie drawer: Using Lingerie Patterns for Swimwear

swimwear August 3, 2017

Sadly, I haven’t spent nearly as much time at the beach this year as I would have liked… the weather just has not been cooperating. But, we still have a good month left of beach weather here in central Ontario and I plan on making the most of it!

I get a lot of messages about how to make swimsuits using my lingerie patterns. It’s not too different from sewing them as lingerie, but there are a few changes I usually make. I’ll list them out here.

  1. Find a suitable fabric. Something Spandex. Within THIS post you will find some good sources for swim fabric.
  2. Line it. Line the whole damn thing in swimwear lining or spandex fabric. Do this to prevent your suit from being see-through, and clinging to every nook and cranny. You don’t want your crannies clung to.
  3. Use an elastic hemmed edge  (learn about that here) or self binding (learn more here). Picot elastic or FOE makes a garment look too lingerie-like in my opinion.
  4. Make Self Straps (which you can also learn about in This Video.
  5. Substitute a hook and eye closure for long ties, straps, or a g-hook

Almost any bra or panty pattern can be converted into lingerie. Here I’m going to show you some that I have made (my entire bathing suit collection is me-made using my own patterns) as well as some that other lingerie designers and sewists have made! I hope you find this inspiring and helpful! Now go get your stitch on and hit the beach!

  1. The Anouk Bodysuit as One-Piece Swimsuit. Get the details here!

2. My strappy back Cindy+Ava Bikini. Here’s the top and here’s the bottom!

3. Another Ava Bottom with a Sarah top. I made this shortly after Isabel was born!

4. I used my Amber Bra for this tan-line nightmare but super cute swimsuit. I paired it with the bottoms from my Cindy pattern which have a higher cut leg.

5. This is my oldest and all time favourite bikini. It’s a basic Ava Bottom paired with a boned Jasmine Top. Seriously, I’ve had this since 2013 and I love it to death.  Get the tutorial for a Boned Jasmine Here.

6. Evie La Luve used her Jaime Bodysuit to make this floral number. She says,

“I’ve used my Jamie Bodysuit pattern. I’ve used scuba and lined the whole thing with swim lining. Instead of using fold over and picot elastic I’ve used self made binding, incorporating rubber swim elastic. There were a few minor adjustments to the pattern pieces. First I adjusted the bra back so that it would fit a bikini closure, which i’ve used instead of the back closure usually required for this pattern. I also joined the panties front and crotch pattern pieces to eliminate the front crotch seam!”

7. Madalynne paired her patterns with some Spoonflower Sport lycra for her halter bikini. She says,

“As long as the percentage of stretch is the same or very similar, a lingerie pattern can be used for swimwear. This swimsuit, which I appropriately named August, is a combination of 2 free patterns I offer on my website, Sierra and Noelle. I transferred the bust darts into shirring at the neck and created a channeling so that I could put a tie through it. Obviously, the fabric changed. I used printed Sport Lycra from Spoonflower and swimsuit lining from Bra Makers Supply. Easy peasy to sew.”

9. Ying from Tailor Made Shop also used the Noelle Pattern to make these tropical swim bottoms.

9. Last but not least, Susan from Measure Twice Cut Once used Sophie Hines Euler Bra for this cute longline bikini top. I love the mix of patterns.

It’s my birthday… sale.

Anxiety, Lingerie, Sales, Sewing Patterns June 30, 2017

Happy birthday to me… happy birthday to me!

My birthday really snuck up on me this year. I guess that’s what happens when you get older. Sigh…

33 has been a pretty good year. Well actually, it was difficult. 33 was the year I got help for my anxiety ‘issue.’ It’s kind of funny, because I am ending out 33 doing not quite so well, but during this year I’ve learned so many things about how to maintain my sanity. Most importantly I learned that I don’t have to feel like something terrible is about to happen all of the time.

On the bright side, I sleep now! And I very rarely have nightmares. I did have a bout of sleep paralysis/wake-up screaming two nights ago, but as a whole, my sleep is much better. However, my bouts of nightmares really make me feel like a crazy person. There is no nice way to put it. They are terrifying and the feelings linger for days. Actually, when I think of it, a lot of my intrusive thoughts as well as my dreams leave me feeling like, “a good/normal person wouldn’t have these thoughts. There is something wrong with me.” It’s not a good feeling to have, on top of the effect of the imagery and content of my dreams and intrusive thoughts. I feel embarrassed sharing this, but I know there is probably at least one other person out there who feels the same way!

My physical health is much better. I’m running 10k on a regular basis and planning on training for 15! On the downside, I’m finding that my mental health maintenance is lacking… I’ve really let it slip and it’s showing. My body images has also been not so good – this is a thing I still don’t feel I have a good grasp on. But as a whole, I am doing much better.

Life is full of highs and lows and lots of stuff in between. It’s the “in between” times that I have a hard time with, and summer is always one of those times for me. Things drag along a little more slowly, which I should enjoy, but I thrive off of the adrenaline rush of being busy (or of crisis). I’m trying… really trying to be ok with life just chugging a long.

Anyway, enough about me…

I decided to celebrate, I’d have a sale, and it’s going to be my BIGGEST sale of the year. Take 20% off all lingerie & sewing patterns with the coupon code HappyBirthday 20. Offer expires Monday July 3 at midnight!

Shop Lingerie on Etsy

Shop Sewing Patterns on Etsy

Or, shop directly on my blog!

I thought this might be a good time for a sale since it’s a long weekend for many of us, with Canada Day and July 4th in the US. This is a great opportunity to pick up a couple sewing patterns and work through my new swimsuit tutorials *wink wink*

And YES! I ate that giant brownie.

Enjoy!

Anouk Swimsuit Add-On Tutorial

New Items, Sewing Patterns, swimwear, Tutorial June 27, 2017

I’m in swimsuit mode this summer, despite the not-so-sunny weather. It’s been a pretty cool and really rainy summer so far, but I guess it’s still early!

I’ve just finished up a free add-on tutorial for my Anouk Bodysuit. This 25-page tutorial will show you how to sew the Anouk Bodysuit as a swimsuit! 

The tutorial includes instructions on how to sew a fully lined Anouk Swimsuit, with elastic stabilized bindings and straps.

This tutorial does not go over the ballet-wrap variation, but the technique is essentially the same – just instead of sewing a centre front seam, you finish the neckline edges with binding, then overlap down the centre front, just like directed in the Bodysuit Instructions.

There are also various ways you can tie the straps!

I really like the straps on this. I can’t wear halter straps – the weight of my boobs on my neck causes migraines. I know I’m not alone in this! This swimsuit eliminates that issue. You can criss-cross the straps in the back or front, or just do straight shoulder straps. They then connect at the centre back.

This swimsuit also has underbust elastic. I can’t wear a one piece without it, I just don’t find it comfortable. However, if you are more petite in the bust-area, you can omit that step!

This swimsuit utilizes similar techniques as my recent Cindy tutorial, so those videos make for a great reference, in addition to my tutorial.

You can download the tutorial Add-On HERE and you can purchase the Anouk Bodysuit Pattern HERE.

Video Tutorial: Ava Swimsuit Bottoms

Sewing Patterns, swimwear, Tutorial, Videos June 23, 2017

The Ava Pattern is my favourite pattern to use for making bikini bottoms. I find the cut to be comfortable and flattering on my figure. Perfect for chasing toddlers around on the beach, or just a more retro vibe.

 

In this short video tutorial I’ll show you how to sew the Ava Pattern as a swimsuit bottom. It’s very simple, but I use some different techniques to finish the waist and legline so it looks less lingerie and more beach.

You’ll need a couple different supplies. First of all, you’ll need swim-appropriate fabric, so something like a nylon spandex/lycra blend is ideal. In my Cindy Bikini Post, I outline some places to buy swimsuit fabric. You’ll also need swimsuit lining, in the same yardage as your exterior fabric.

You’ll also need swim elastic, so something that is chlorine resistant, though really almost any plain elastic will do. Just looking for something 1/4″-3/8″ wide. The elastic is not visible on the finished garment, but I try to get something that coordinates with my exterior fabric – white for light coloured bathing suits and black for darker fabrics. I also use a twin needle. I’ve used the Ava Pattern for my swimsuit, but really any panty pattern you like should work!

Here’s the Tutorial! Subscribe to my channel to be the first to see new videos.

Share your makes with me on Instagram, use the hashtag #OLSBikini so I can see them!

Pattern Hack: Strappy Cindy Bikini Top with Underwire

Sewing Patterns, swimwear, Tutorial, Videos June 23, 2017

Looking for a weekend summer sewing project? I’ve got just the thing for you!

I made one of these bikinis last summer and I wore it SO often to the beach with Isabel. We are lucky to have a nice sandy beach just down the road and we spend a lot of time down there (not so much this rainy summer though!).

I used my Cindy Pattern to make this bikini top. My Cindy Pattern is a fairly simple to sew underwire bra with full coverage through the cups and a long-line band. This bra is designed to be sewn with stretch fabric through the cups. It’s a personal preference of mine, I’m not a big fan of foam or rigid cups. I like a softer fit and look.

I altered the pattern just slightly by omitting the centre back pattern pieces and cutting off the “tabs” on the upper cups.

I love this pattern as a bikini top because it is supportive and offers coverage while still being stylish and a little sexy.

You’ll need the same basic materials as you would if you were sewing the top as a bra, but with a couple of substitutions. You’ll need swimsuit fabric – so a fabric that is normally a nylon / spandex / lycra blend. You’ll also need swimsuit lining – I use it to line the cups. The band is lined in power mesh.  Get a little bit of extra fabric to use as your binding and straps. I also use some rubber swim elastic, but pretty much any plain elastic will do! Look for something 3/8″ or narrower.

I’ve decided to offer this tutorial in a two part video series on my YouTube Channel. It’s quite long, with each part being about 30 minutes.

My local Fabricland sells an assortment of swimsuit fabric and some lining, but I find they tend to be pretty expensive. The Sport Lycra from Spoonflower (which I used here) is amazing and comes in endless prints. I’m pretty sure Fabric.com also has an assortment of swimwear fabrics. Spandex World is also a great resource, though if you’re in Canada, shipping can be expensive. I also always recommend supporting Etsy sellers!

Here is Part 1 of the tutorial:

And Part 2:

In this video series, I show you how to sew self-binding with encased elastic. I like this finish for swimwear as it provides some extra stability to your openings, and when top stitched with a twin needle, gives a professional finish. These finishes and techniques  can easily be applied to other sewing patterns too!

I was excited to take some of these pictures in my very lush back yard and newly decorated back porch.  The previous owner of our house did an amazing job landscaping. Other than maintenance, there’s not much to do with our yard. It’s a gardeners delight. Isabel loves to run around the paths and play explorer. Just last weekend Dan and I spent some time putting up some curtains, lights and other bits and bobs in the back porch. When I first saw this house it’s part of why I fell in love with it. It feels like my very own cottage.

Sewing Studio Tour (Confessions of a Fabric Hoarder)

Home, Personal, Videos June 22, 2017

A few weeks ago I posted a short video about how my sewing table is set up. A few people mentioned wanting to see my entire space… I was a little reluctant because to be honest, it is a mess. Last weekend, Isabel came down to do a little work with me and exclaimed “Mommy! Why’d you make such a mess again!” So I tidied up a bit, and decided now was as good a time as ever to show you around.

My sewing space is not glamorous, but it is big, bright, and all mine. It’s a bit of a mess, and less organized than I would like, but I really have no right to complain. I’m fortunate to have such a space at my disposal! One of the benefits of living almost in the middle of nowhere is that we can actually afford a fairly big house on a lingerie-maker & mechanics two salaries.

I am super fortunate to actually have two spaces in my house that I use for work – my entire basement and a room at the corner of our house with lots of light, which is perfect for photography. In our old house everything was crammed into one bedroom. It feels really good to have the space to have a home for everything, and to be able to shut the door at the end of the week, and (try) not to worry about work for a bit.

The best part of this video is that Oliver made a cameo!

Two weeks ago he had surgery to remove some teeth as well as a lump on his head that turned out to be a mast cell tumor. It was scary waiting for the results after the lump was removed but I was relieved to find out that out of all the mast cell tumors he could have had, his was the “best” kind to have in that it was extremely slow growing and they were able to remove the entire mass. Oliver is 10, and his age is starting to show… But now that he has recovered he seems to have more energy again which is great!

Jasmine PRISM Add-On

Design Diary, Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns June 6, 2017

A few weeks ago I added a new style to my Lingerie Shop. I talked a bit about why I designed this Jasmine adaptation earlier, but I’ll recap. I had been experimenting with sewing the Jasmine Bra with a cut-out at the front but was experiencing some unsightly gaping and pulling no matter what I did. So I had the idea of adding  a sheer mesh insert to fake it and it worked out amazingly.

So, from there I experimented with adding a scalloped lace insert, which also was a nice detail, and a little different, design-wise. So I decided to release this as an Add-On to the Jasmine Pattern.

Let’s take a peek inside…

With the Jasmine PRISM Add-On, you get two additional pattern pieces which you use instead of using the original Front Cup Piece. I’ve written up a 29 page instructional manual that will show you how to sew the bra with the alternate pattern pieces, as well walk you through how to add a lace longline band, how to use hook and eye tape, and how to add some lace detail to the straps.  Some of these are techniques I have already gone over in my Valentine’s Day Sew Along, but here you will have them all in one place.

The PRISM Add-On is only $2, but it only works in conjunction with the Original Jasmine Pattern – so you need to have both. I hope this helps you get even more wear out of my Jasmine Pattern!

Floral Love

Design Diary, Lingerie June 6, 2017

Did you guys know I love florals?

hehe… sorry, I had to!

Girl Charlee sent me some samples of their new cotton spandex floral fabrics a few weeks ago and I am so excited to show you what I made! I had to laugh when they contacted me to let me know about their new prints, because I had already purchased several meters of the black colourway! However, after seeing the white, I actually think I might like it even more than the black, and I love a dark floral.

The prints I used are their new exclusive Bonny Floral (the white) and Orleans Rose (Black).

Cotton Spandex Jersey is my favourite fabric for day-to-day lingerie. It’s nice and stretchy and forgiving, allows the body to breathe yet the resiliency of the spandex provides enough support to be comfortable. I do like to line my cotton spandex bras in a solid stretch mesh as it gives a bit more support.  The only downside I occasionally find is that it can be on the thicker side, which can cause panty lines, so I tend to pair it with sheer or lace fabrics over the hips and derrière.

For the white colourway, I paired it with peach stretch lace. I used my Celeste Pattern with the lace back variation, and added a longline band to the Jasmine “Prism” bra (I’ll explain more in my next post!).

I kept it simple for the dark floral, using my Claudia Panties with sheer peach mesh across the hips and contrasting black fold over elastic around the waist and legs. I did a sheer mesh insert at the front of my Jasmine Bra.

I’m really happy with how these worked out and was excited to get a sneak preview of them. I love fabric, so I’ll jump on any chance I get to see something new!

I’ve been finishing up a lot of odds and ends over the last few days. We had a really busy weekend and I’m looking forward to having a day off with Isabel tomorrow. We’ve been doing lots around the house and the gardens are keeping me busy (despite all of the rain we’ve been having!). I’ve found my anxiety has been slipping over the last few weeks again. I’ve been trying to maintain my self-care routines, such as exercise and eating well, but I’ve been waking up at night obsessing over things. My doctor and I decided to up my medication, so I am hoping that this is just a little blip! In the mean time, I’m trying to just practice some self-compassion, keep my chin up and know that this too shall pass!  Making pretty things helps though, and so does sharing these things with all of you.

A year in the making, the Kate Camisole Sewing Pattern is Here!

Design Diary, Lingerie, New Items, Sewing Patterns, Videos June 5, 2017

I think it was a year ago or so that I first posted a photo on Instagram of this camisole… As I mentioned in my video post a couple of weeks ago, I went back and forth on a bunch of things (darts, fullness, etc.) and toyed with various ways to write up these rather complicated instructions. The pattern itself is very simple – just two pattern pieces! But there are just so many ways you can sew it – dressed up or dressed down!

Anyway… without further adieu, here is the Kate Camisole!

So far, of all of the variations I’ve sewn, I think this one in Cotton + Steel Rifle Paper Co. challis is my favourite. Even Isabel has asked for one in her size! I absolutely love this print and fabric.

The pattern comes with instructions on how to add a ruffle – I give suggestions as to how long to cut your ruffle, but you could even experiment with cutting an extra long ruffle band to turn the top into a flowy, bohemian summer dress.

I experimented sewing these tops out of linen, chiffon, double gauze, gauze, challis and silk charmeuse. I think my favourite fabric to work with for this style is rayon challis. It is just so light and drapey. Silk charmeuse is a close second.

The Kate pattern is an excellent pair for with any of my woven bottoms, like the Jane or Miyu panties. But remember, you can also use a woven fabric for the front of my Claudia Panties too! It works great in silk.

You can purchase the Kate Camisole pattern directly from my website HERE or on Etsy!

To view a video-tutorial outlining the basic construction methods, hop on over to my Youtube Channel!