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Make your own Surgical Pillow

Tutorial May 11, 2023

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Today marks 7 days since I had surgery! I’m just getting back to work today, even though my recovery has gone surprisingly smooth. I took a few days to just lay around, rest, go for leisurely walks… It was nice, but I’m glad to be getting back into the groove.

I had intended on posting this before my surgery but was running a little behind, as is my usual style! Anyway, better late than never!

The objective of a surgical pillow is to give you something to hold or brace yourself against after having surgery that involves incisions in the chest and abdomen. I would think that it could be helpful for recovering from anything from mastectomy to c-sections. It can be especially useful for in the car to prevent a seat belt from pressing against you, or for simply holding icepacks (this was amazing). I used mine in my first few days to keep my very snuggly toddler from accidentally bumping into me.

Pillows are one of the most basic things to sew. This surgical pillow is just a step up from your basic square or rectangular pillow. It’ll require sewing some curves, as well as adding optional pockets (I highly recommend), but overall it is a great beginner project.

Supplies Needed

Instructions

  1. Cut out a TWO rectangles approximately 38″ wide by 13″ tall.
  2. Using your marking pencil, draw a line 11″ in from each side.
  3. Create an armhole on either side

4. Cut out 2 optional pocket pieces that are approximately 12″x8″. Press raw edges under 1/2″ and top stitch the upper edge down.

5. Pin the pocket pieces onto each side of the pillow and top stitch in place. For the side that will sit against your chest, you may want to divide the pocket into two sections for ice packs.

You can divide the pocket into two sections by top stitching down the middle.

6. With the Pillow Pieces facing right sides together, stitch around the perimeter of the pillow, leaving three openings at the bottom (one on the left side, one in the middle and one on the right side). Clip corners and clip and slash curved portions.

7. Turn right side out and press flat.

8. Run a line of stitching on either side from top to bottom, about 1/2″ away from where the pillow begins to curve down. This divides the pillow into three sections.

9. Stuff the pillow with fibre fill.

10. Hand stitch the 3 openings closed.

This is just the quick and dirty. I’ve got a more thorough tutorial over on YouTube.

Winging It – Using scalloped lace for the Birch Panties Pattern

Tutorial, Videos January 27, 2023

I’m envious of those sewists who plan things out thoroughly and sew with intention and precision. That’s not to say my sewing isn’t excellent. I am very confident in the quality of my construction methods and demand a high level of quality from myself especially when making something for others. However, my methods can be quite chaotic… and I think there is actually some benefit to this chaos. I often come up with new ideas and techniques along the way. My mom always jokes with me that I don’t follow any of the rules and yet still end up with something beautiful.

I decided to turn this chaos into a series on my YouTube channel. I’ll just show you my designing/construction process, complete with the mistakes I make a long the way. I always liked that Bob Ross quote, “Happy accident.” So often a little mistake in my design will turn turn into a feature with a little creativity. For me, a design isn’t something I always initially see in completion. I get the idea or the feeling, and let it take a life of its own.

For this first episode, I wanted to use my Birch pattern (my current favourite for day-to-day wear), but I wanted to sew it entirely out of a relatively narrow stretch scalloped lace. I also prioritize comfort these days, so I wanted to sew them in a way that they would be pretty, but still comfortable for chasing after a toddler, working, and walks about town.

I’m really trying to grow my YouTube Channel. As I think more about what makes me happy, it’s just creating. Videos like this allow me to make practical use of that creative spark. I really appreciate the likes, comments and subs! It really does help the channel grow.

A simple fix for too-narrow lace

Tutorial, Videos November 29, 2022

Affiliate disclosure: I may earn a small commission from applicable purchases made through the links in this post. This helps keep my website running! Thank you so much.

I’m working on a new sewing pattern that is specifically for stretch lace. I know sometimes it can be a real struggle to find stretch lace in the right width. Sometimes you find that just-right shade but it’s an inch or two too narrow. I’ve posted a photo tutorial on how to remedy this problem, but with my new lace pattern coming out, I thought I’d re-visit it in video form.

Can you spot where I fixed my too-narrow lace?

This tutorial is really simple. There’s no measuring. No adapting patterns… just some simple applique. I demonstrate my technique using the Claudia Pattern, but this works for pretty much any sewing pattern that requires a scalloped stretch lace. If you’re looking for stretch lace, Mint Frog on Etsy has a great selection!

I’ve really been enjoying uploading to YouTube and my blog more often. As easy as Instagram and Tiktok are for quick posts, it’s nice to spend a little time and hash things out in a longer format.

I was feeling really good last month. I was productive and things seemed to be getting back to “normal,” with my kids in school and daycare regularly…. no threats of further shut downs. But then having Oliver pass… then Lila in the hospital… then Isabel & I with the flu… and daycare went on vacation… and now Dan is sick… I feel like I’m starting over again. It always seems like once I lose that momentum, it’s so hard to pick it back up again.

On the bright side, business is busy again. I’m hoping I can pace myself in such a way that I still have time for posting more on YouTube, just because I really enjoy it!

Cutting No-Shows and beginner tips

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized November 11, 2022

This post contains affiliate links. I may make a small commission on qualifying items purchased through affiliate links. Thank you for your support!

The Birch No Show Panties was a fun project for me because the techniques were something new! While the cut may be pretty classic, the sewing techniques were really different.

Because the No Show variation of these undies has no elastic you want to make sure it your cut edge is nice and clean. Normally, my go to for cutting is a good pair of scissors, but a rotary cutter is also an excellent way to get a clean cut.

I like this 18mm rotary cutter. It’s small and compact and is great for cutting around small pieces you often find with lingerie sewing patterns.

Don’t forget you’ll also need a cutting mat if you are new to rotary cutters!

The pattern as it prints is to be placed on the fold. I was able to cut through two layers with my rotary cutter. However, you may want to mirror your front and back pattern pieces if you find cutting through two layers of fabric is a little too tricky. I recently uploaded a video walking you through how to neatly cut your own pair of Birch No Show’s, but these tips and techniques will work for any no show garment.

Sew Your Own Felt Donut Pin Cushion

Tutorial, Uncategorized December 12, 2018

I made this happy little donut a couple of years ago around Valentines Day. Isabel was still in daycare and I wanted to make a little stuffy for each of her friends. So, I made some cute and cuddly donuts out of felt! They were so adorable and fun to make that I snuck in an extra one for myself to use as a pin cushion. I get so many comments and questions about this little guy whenever I post photos of him, so I am very excited to be offering a step-by-step tutorial and printable template today.

What You’ll Need

The supplies required are simple to find at most craft shops, or if you’re a craft-supply hoarder like me, you may have everything you need already in your stash. You can use acrylic craft felt, or if you can find it, wool felt is even nicer to work with and creates a bit of a finer finish. I particularly like the wool blend felt from Dandelion Fabrics. You will need to know how to do some basic embroidery stitches. If you’re not familiar with embroidery, don’t worry, I’ve included links to some helpful videos. And if all else fails, just wing it!

Here’s your shopping list:

  • 1 (8.5″x11″) square of brown or tan felt
  • 1 square of coloured felt for “frosting”
  • 1 small scrap of black felt for eyes
  • Polyester batting or other stuffing material (sawdust, fine sand, ground nut shells can all be used to stuff pin cushions)
  • Embroidery threads in black, white, brown and 3 colours for sprinkles
  • Donut template 
OLS_FreeDonutPinCushionTemplateDownload

Method

1.Begin by cutting out 2 Donut shapes out of brown or tan felt, and 1 Frosting shape out of colourful felt. Place the Frosting on top of one of the Donut shapes and using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, top stitch around the perimeter of the Frosting. Alternatively, you can use a needle and embroidery thread for a more decorative look. I opted to use my sewing machine for speed.

2. Cut small circles out of black felt for eyes and slightly larger circles out of pink felt for cheeks. If you are handy with an embroidery needle, you could skip these steps and just embroider a cute face. I’m not as confident with my embroidery skills as I am with my sewing skills, so I chose to do felt eyes and cheeks.

3. Stitch the cheeks in place first, then layer the black eye circles overlapping the cheeks. I chose to sew these on using my sewing machine, but a needle and thread will work just as well!

4. Using the white embroidery thread, sew a french knot in each eye to add a little “twinkle”. Using the black embroidery thread, use a Backstitch to create a little smile.

5.  Using your colourful embroidery thread, sew random “sprinkles” across the frosting. I used white, pink and blue for my sprinkles. It’s ok if it looks messy from the back. It will be hidden between the layers soon!

6. With the right sides of the donut facing each other, stitch the donut together around the outer perimeter using a narrow, 1/8″-ish seam allowance. Do not sew the donut “hole” and be sure to leave a 1.5″ gap so that we can stuff the donut in a later step!

7. Turn your donut right side out. Using the brown embroidery thread, use a Blanket Stitch to close up the donut hole.

8. Firmly stuff the donut the the filling of your choice. Once it is filled up nice and firm, use a needle and thread to stitch the opening closed.

Now you’re ready to admire your handiwork and fill it full of pins!

How to use Boning for Added Support in Bras

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized November 8, 2018

One of the reasons I started making wire-free bras is because underwires, no matter what size I wear, end up giving me terrible chest and back pain by the end of the day. I just love the relaxed comfort of a soft bra.

That being said, sometimes you want to find ways to give your wire-free bras a little more structure. There are lots of different ways you can do this, from sewing them with wider band and strap elastic, to adding some light sew-in foam. Over the summer, I finally got around to experimenting with something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: adding boning to the sides of my Jasmine Bras.  Personally, I’m not a big fan of foam bras for myself. For me, a lightweight lace bra is my go-to, but I wanted to add a little more vertical structure.

What is boning?

Boning is best known for it’s use in corsetry, but it’s used in everything from longline bras to wedding dresses to swimwear! Basically, any garment where you need some vertical structure to prevent a garment from folding in on itself, OR when you want to create a garment that shapes the body, you’ll want to use boning.

There are a few different types of boning:

Rigelene / Sew-in boning – very lightweight plastic boning that can be sewn through and does not have a casing.

Plastic Boning – heavier than rigilene boning and often comes with a casing. Easy to cut and sew, but can form permanent bends when used in corsets or shaping garments.

Flat Spring Steel Boning – this boning is very rigid and great for use where a lot of vertical structure is needed, like on either side of corset laces.

Steel Spiral Boning – very flexible but strong steel boning made out of flattened coiled steel. This boning is great for use down side seams of corsets or structured evening dresses as it will bend around the curves of the waist and hips.

Although there are many ways to “install” boning, I usually like to use a casing. You can buy a tightly woven casing meant specifically for boning which I highly recommend using as it will prevent the bones from working their way through, but if you’re experimenting and are not ready to commit to purchasing supplies, bias or twill tape are good alternatives.

Most fabric stores will stock plastic and/or rigilene boning. You can find metal boning at larger bra and corset making supply shops, like Bra-Maker’s Supply.

For this particular bra, I used small pieces of Flat Spring Steel Boning and cotton bone casing, however I’ve made myself a couple of other bras using Plastic Boning that I like just as well. Truthfully, the bones are so small in this variation that either works well.

Installing the bones.

I assembled my Jasmine Bra in lace according to the pattern instructions.

Before finishing the seam allowance on the side seam and applying the upper elastic, stitch a length of bone casing to the seam allowance, along the side seam stitching line.

Trim back the seam allowance to approximately 1/4″.

Fold the casing down and top stitch in place along the opposite edge.

You now have a casing stitched to the bra side seam that will soon house your boning!

I decided to sew a second length of casing beside the side seam, running slightly on the diagonal. My goal  was to have it slightly follow the side of my breast.

Finish your upper edge according to the pattern instructions.

Measure out your boning so that it is at least 1″ shorter than the length of the casing. Remember, you need to leave enough room to stitch on the band elastic.

If you are using plastic boning, round off the ends of the boning and file down any rough or sharp bits. If you are using metal boning, finish the ends with metal boning tips. This will smooth out the ends of the boning so they won’t poke through.

Insert the bones into the casing, making sure you have left at least a 1″ gap at the bottom. From here, you can complete the assembly of the bra.

A very important note.

When you are ready to sew on your band elastic, please stitch very carefully past where your boning is. If you are using plastic boning, you may find that your sewing machine will just stitch through the boning, but if you have chosen metal, your sewing machine will spit needle shards at you.

Finishing Up.

Adding boning this way doesn’t change the overall look of the bra, but it does add some vertical structure which can help your bra stay more up-right while still being comfortable. Here’s another one I made, this time in a neutral beige lace (which had yet to have it’s straps sewn on). Leah thought it looked great! And honestly, it’s my current favourite bra.

 

A #BRAugust DIY: Simple Lingerie Inspired Choker

Tutorial August 12, 2018

Last year, one of my favourite supply shops, Tailor Made started an Instagram photo challenge – #BRAugust, and I was so happy to see she launched it again this year! As someone who is constantly swimming in the realm of lingerie, it’s a fun challenge to take a theme each day and see what I can come up with. Ying has done an amazing amount of work putting this event together and has organized with pattern makers and supply shops for a month of giveaways. So, if you’re into lingerie-making, this is the hashtag to follow!

Get the details on #BRAugust2018 from the Tailor Made blog Here.

 

I’m offering two things this August. The first is a simple DIY for a lingerie strap choker. You can dress it up with a bauble or pendant or leave it plain. The theme for my day is “Solids.” Although I’m pretty well known for my use of prints, I love to be able to introduce contrasting colours and textures through the use of solids. I also love that it allows me to add layers of interest, like lace overlays, harnesses, etc, without those little details getting lost in a print. These little chokers are a great way to dress up an otherwise “plain” lingerie set.

For this DIY you’ll need some basic bra making supplies:

  • 22″ Strap Elastic
  • 2 x Strap Sliders
  • 1 x Ring
  • 1 x G-hook

If you’ve made a bra strap, you can easily make this choker. Start by cutting two 11″ lengths of elastic.

Sew a slider onto one end of each of the strips of elastic.

On one strip, feed a g-hook onto the loose end, then feed the loose end back through the slider.  With the remaining piece, simply feed the loose end back through the slider. This creates the adjustable straps as well as the closure.

The last step is to simply feed the loose ends through the ring and stitch in place. You can use a tight zigzag stitch or a straight stitch. Whichever you choose, just be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of your stitching line!

This #BRAugust I’m also giving away a little gift, so be sure to follow Tailor Made on Instagram as well as my account (@ohhhlulu).

A FREE Bralette Pattern

Design Diary, Giveaway, New Items, Sewing Patterns, Tutorial April 3, 2018

Guess what?

I have a new pattern! And the best part is, it’s FREE!

The Hyacinth Bralette is a super simple pattern. It’s just two pieces and only requires a small amount of fabric, making it the perfect scrap buster. If you are new to sewing, with a bit of experience working with knits, this is the perfect project for you. If you’re a more experienced sewer, the Hyacinth will be a quick yet rewarding sew.

 

I’ve posted two videos on YouTube. One will walk you through how to alter the Hyacinth Bralette for a larger cup size (a D+), and the other walks you through the general construction. You can check those out here.

This bralette isn’t designed for support. It’s meant to be a light garment, ideal for smaller cup sizes, or as lounge wear. I think it would also make a great bikini top.

The instructions provided with the pattern will walk you through how to add lace trim to the neckline, band elastic along the lower edge, fold over elastic around the side and back upper edges, as well as how to sew adjustable straps. This pattern is developed for stretch knits. I like something with about 5% spandex for stretch and recovery.

I’ll be releasing an expansion pack for the Hyacinth Bralette very soon which will include several back variations as well as lace overlay options. I’m super excited about it and have had so much fun working on all of the samples….!

Get your free copy of the basic Hyacinth Bralette here. And stay tuned for the expansion pack!

Fixing common bra fit issues and other lingerie sewing tips

Tutorial February 8, 2018

For the past few months I’ve been contributing to the Craftsy blog, writing posts on how to sew lingerie. These posts are not specific to my own line of lingerie sewing patterns, but applicable to most lingerie sewing projects.

As I mentioned in a previous post, this doesn’t detract from the tutorials and sewing content I plan on providing here, it’s just an extra resource. I’m really enjoying the challenge of writing these posts for Craftsy!

I thought I’d provide a quick run down and links of some of my recent posts.

Quick Fixes for 4 Common Bra Fit Issues

From straps that fall down to cups that overfloweth, I provide some simple solutions to a few common problems.

 

Getting the Right Cup Size on Handmade Lingerie

Should be easy, right?

It’s one of the biggest challenges I have as a lingerie maker. Breasts vary a lot from person to person (hey, sometimes even from left to right). I wrote this post as a starting point.  Bra fitting is an art, not a science, and at the end of the day it doesn’t matter what number or letter size you settle on, it’s that you have a garment that is comfortable.

How to Sew 2 Types of Decorative Elastic for Lingerie

Sewing lingerie involves some specialized skills. In this post I review how to sew picot edge and band elastic.

Choosing & Using 2 Common Fabrics for Lacy Lingerie

Working with lace can be tricky, but there are some things you can do to make the process easier. This post covers working with all-over stretch lace as well as scalloped stretch lace.

Save this post for later! Pin the image below.

How to add Cut & Sew Foam Padding to the Jasmine Bra (and more!)

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Videos September 20, 2017

Way back when, I wrote up a tutorial on padding the Jasmine Bra with balconette style pre-formed cups. Over the last few months, I’ve been experimenting with a new method, using cut and sew foam.

Cut and sew foam is available through most bra making suppliers. There are lots of options, but I recommend Bra Makers Supply in Canada or Arte Crafts in the US. Cut and sew foam is quite thin, maybe 1/8″ or so thick. It has some 2-way stretch. Adding foam to your soft bras will add a little bit of body and structure, as well as a little extra coverage if you are concerned about visible nipples. My personal preference is still for non-padded bras, but this is a nice option if the things above are of concern to you! Or, if you just want to try something new. I will say, I’ll be adding this to my bikini top sewing repertoire, but I’m still not sure padded bras are for me.

Aside from the foam, you won’t need any other special supplies – just what it outlines in the pattern for a lined bra.

Feeling cozy!

The method for assembling the bra with foam padding is essentially the same as a lined Jasmine. The main difference comes with how we will finish the interior seams.

Instructions:

Begin by cutting out your pieces. Cut the bra exactly as you normally would, but also cut out the cup pieces in cut and sew foam.

Place the Centre Front Self/Exterior pieces right side together, aligning the CF seam. Place a piece of foam over top of that, then the lining pieces with the right sides facing each other. Finish with the final piece of foam. Stitch together down the centre front seam.

Trim back both pieces of foam as close to the stitching line as possible.

Open the Front up, separating one half of the foam. With your fingers, press the seam allowance towards the foam.

Using a zig-zag stitch, top stitch the seam allowance to the foam. When your needle “zigs” to the left, it should just catch that little bit of foam left in your seam allowance. The idea here is to flatten the seam, and in addition, the zig-zag stitching almost acts as an understitch, helping the lining and exterior fabrics fall into place.

Trim back the seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and open the Centre Front pieces.

To assemble the rest of the cup, place the Side Front Self/Exterior against the Centre Front curved cup seam so that the right sides are facing. Place the Side Front foam against the wrong side of the Side Front Self. Flip the garment over, and then place the lining down the curved seam, sandwiching the Centre Front between the Side Front Self/Foam and Lining. Stitch together.

Once again, trim back both pieces of foam seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible.

Fold the seam allowance towards the Side Front Foam, pushing the Side Front self and lining towards the centre front.

Just like you did with the centre front seam. Zig zag stitch the seam allowance to the Side Front foam.

Trim back the remaining seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and flip the Side Front self and lining over the foam.

Attach your Back Band pieces as indicated in the pattern instructions and sew on the band elastic.  It is very important that you trim any excess fabric beyond your  band stitching line back to allow the bra to fold under properly.

Top stitch the band elastic in place. Be careful here, it gets quite thick. Go slowly and take your time! Finish the upper edge with Fold Over Elastic as outlined in the instructions, and complete the bra with a back closure and straps.

I would say this is more of an “advanced” tutorial. It can be quite tricky to get all of the layers to line up properly. That is definitely the most challenging part.  Getting the fit just right is also a little more of a challenge because the foam will limit the vertical stretch of the bra, which tends to be more of an issue for the DD+ crowd.

If you prefer video format, I’ve uploaded a quick tutorial on how to add foam padding to the Romy Bra:


… And how to add padding the the Lace Jasmine Variation!