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Ohhh Lulu Pattern Hacks: Elastic Finishes for Lingerie & Swimwear

Tutorial, Uncategorized July 9, 2014

In my patterns, I generally glance over how to apply elastic edge finishes.  There are so many different types of elastic, and different methods of application. Here, I’m going to go more in depth into 4 different edge finishes, serger/overlock machine optional!

These are four basic finishes.  I like to use the Fold Over & Picot Elastic for lingerie edge finishes, while the Twin Stitched and Zig-Zag finishes are great for swimwear as they create a clean, but snug fitting edge.

Elastic Edge Finishes – on the outside

Elastic Edge Finishes – on the inside

Above are the basic types of elastic you may want to use for Lingerie or Swimwear.  Picot & Fold Over are best for Lingerie while plain elastic works great for swimwear.  You can buy specific swimwear elastic that is suitable for wear in chlorine – just search for “Swimwear elastic.”  I use 1/4″ swimwear elastic on my swim items, but you can also experiment with clear elastic and elastic of different widths.

Elastic comes in different weights and amounts of stretch.  Because of this, I generally do not add elastic lengths in my patterns.  I find the best way to get the most comfortable fit is to experiment with the amount of tension applied to the elastic you have.  You want the elastic to gently contour the edge of the garment and create a snug fit, but not ruche or gather the fabric underneath. You will find that if you are working with stretch knits, like a spandex swimwear fabric or cotton/lycra jersey, you will want to apply less tension than if you were working with a bias cut, woven quilting cotton. After you sew a couple samples, I think you’ll find that it quickly becomes second nature.

I have an “Anything Goes” mindset to sewing. I firmly believe that there are countless ways to sew a garment or perfect a technique.  These are a few techniques that I personally like to use, but it doesn’t mean they are the only way to do it! Experiment, try different things, and find the technique that works best for you.




Fold Over Elastic 


1. Using a zig-zag stitch, baste your FOE (Fold Over Elastic) onto the wrong side of the garment. Most of my patterns have a 1/4″ hem allowance, so I inset my FOE. When you are basting, apply slight tension to the elastic – this means you gently pull on the elastic while stitching it down.  You’ll see that the fabric very slightly “shrinks” under the tension.  I find it’s best to experiment on mock-up garments to see how much tension works best. After you do this a few times, it will feel like second nature.

2. Trim back any excess fabric on the right side.

3. Fold the elastic along the foldline, and top stitch down using a zig-zag stitch

4. Voila! Your edge is bound in elastic.



Picot Elastic


1. Baste your picot elastic onto the right side of the fabric using a zig-zag stitch. The picot, or decorative edge of the elastic should be pointing in towards the fabric.  As you baste, apply a slight amount of tension to the elastic.


2. Trim back any excess fabric. Turn the elastic under, towards the wrong side and zig-zag stitch down.

 3. That’s it!



Plain Elastic Edge Finishes with Twin or Zig-Zag Stitching
1.  Baste the elastic to the wrong side of the garment using either a zig-zag stitch or your serger/overlock machine. Apply a slight amount of tension to the elastic – you can see in the photos below how the elastic slightly “shrinks” down the edge, which will create a snug fit.

2. Fold elastic under and top stitch down. You can either use a Twin Needle or a Zig Zag Stitch. If you’ve never used a twin needle before, it is really easy and creates professional results! Your sewing machine should come with a detachable peg that can be inserted into the top of the machine to put a 2nd spool of thread.  Insert your twin needle, and make sure your sewing machine is set to stitch a straight stitch.  Thread your machine as you normally would, but use two spools of thread.  This stitch will create two lines of straight stitching on the front, with a zig-zag on the back. It is super stretchy, and perfect for stretch edge finishes.
Sewing Machine threaded for Twin Needle
Stitching with a twin needle
Elasticized, twin-stitched edge finish
Elasticized, zig-zag stitched edge finish

So, there you have it. Those are some basic techniques for applying different types of elastic.  I hope you find these helpful!

Ohhh Lulu Pattern Hacks: Adding Padding to your Jasmine Bra

Tutorial July 5, 2014

The Jasmine bra is a light support bra.  Adding pre-formed foam cups can help give your bra  a little extra shape and structure.  Foam pads come in a variety of styles – balconette, push-up, triangle, etc, and can be found at most sewing supply stores.  My local Fabricland (for Canadians) carries foam cups, but you can also find them for sale on Etsy and other sewing supply stores – just search for foam bra cups. This tutorial is excellent to use if you want to sew your Jasmine as a Bikini Top. You can also use this basic concept to add padding to any of my bra patterns.

What you will need:
1. The Jasmine Bra Pattern (available on Ohhh Lulu Sews)
2. Supplies for the Jasmine bra PLUS fabric for lining (Lining is a MUST) – I recommend a plain cotton jersey, or swimsuit lining if you are making the top into a swimsuit.
3. Foam Cups

Style Lines for the Jasmine Bra Pattern

A bit about cups:
Bra cups come in different shapes and sizes.  If you were to browse through any large sewing supply store, you may find Balconette, Swimsuit, Triangle, and Push-Up Pads.  I generally use Balconette Cups in the Jasmine Bra – they are the most versatile.  Swimsuit cups, which have a less oval shape and generally tend to be lighter weight, work great as well.  You can also find specially shaped triangle cups which will fit into my triangle shaped bras.

If you are putting in a cup larger than a DD, you will need to adjust the height of the pattern and I highly recommend sewing a mock-up first.

 Instructions:
1. Sew your front exterior and lining according to Pattern Instructions.

2. Place a foam cup over the wrong side of the fabric. Below, you can see where I’ve placed the balconette cup, the centre front point sits about 1/2″ away from the centre front seam line and is centred vertically along the front princess seam.  When I make these for myself, I do a lot of “trying on” as I go. I’ll actually hold the lining over my body, and place the cup where it sits best on my bust.  The most important part here is that the the wrong-side of the lining fall into the inward curve of the cup.  You don’t want to put your cup on backwards/inside out!

3. Once you’ve gotten your cup in place, put in a few pins to keep it secure.  With the right side of the lining facing up, so that you can make sure that the lining is curving into the cup, and not getting pulled taught, stitch around the exterior edge of the cup. This part takes a bit of practice. You can use your fingers to feel where the edge of the cup is as you slowly stitch around the perimeter. Do the same to both sides.

Using my fingers to feel the edge of the foam cup as I stitch the cup directly onto the interior of the lining
Cups stitched onto both sides of the lining.
4. Place your outer shell over top of the lining so that the padding is sandwiched between the layers.  Line up your lining and exterior seam-lines, and baste along the lower edge of the bra.  When you are done, you will notice that the outer layer appears shorter.  That’s because it now has to curve over the cup. You can now baste the upper edge in a similar fashion as you did the lower, but just be aware that it is A-OK that the the lining peak out about 1/8″-1/4″ above your exterior – this can be trimmed back when you are done basting.
Baste Lower Edge First
5. Sew on the bra band at the side seams, and complete the bra using the instructions provided in the pattern.  You can use many different types of elastic edging for the neckline of the Jasmine Bra, but when padding the bra, I find that Foldover Elastic is the easiest to manage.
Finished Interior – just needs straps!

Padded Jasmine Exterior

 That’s it! Just a few extra steps and you can make yourself a super-comfortable padded bralette or swimsuit top.

Ohhh Lulu Pattern Hacks: Ava High Waist Panties to Retro Bikini Bottoms

Tutorial June 27, 2014

It’s just about July, and it’s getting HOT! Last summer, I showed you how to make a boned bikini top using my Jasmine Bra Sewing Pattern.  This summer, I’ll show you how to use my Ava High Waist Panties Sewing Pattern to make Retro-style Bikini Bottoms, perfect for mixing and matching with bikini tops you may already own, OR you can pair it with my Zooey Bikini Top, which will be released very soon!

What you will need:
1. The Ava High Waist Panties Pattern – you can find it in my Sewing Pattern Shop.
2. Swimsuit fabric – this is fabric made of spandex / Lycra with 2 or 4 way stretch.  You can use either or, but 4-way stretch fabric will yield a higher-waist bottom (because it will stretch!).  You can find swimsuit fabric at many online retailers, like Fabric.com, or the Fabric Fairy.  
3. Swimsuit Lining – Swimsuit lining is a thin, knit lining that generally comes in white, black and beige and is made of polyester, or another synthetic.  This fabric is quick drying and will help give your swimsuit body and opaqueness (really important for light coloured fabric). It will also prevent the exterior fabric from clinging to your body when wet. We don’t want to show off ever lump, bump, nook, and cranny. Swimsuit lining, or stretch lining is sold at most major fabric stores.
4. 1/4″ Swimwear Elastic – any elastic that is chlorine friendly.  I am using a 1/4″ knitted elastic.  You can use clear elastic, or any elastic you like, as long as it is about 1/4″ wide.
5. Thread to match
6. Twin Needle – Optional, but creates a more professional looking finish.
Instructions:
1. Cut out the front and back in your swimsuit fabric as well as your lining. You now have a Front Self, Front Lining, Back Self, and Back Lining piece.
2. With wrong sides together (right sides of fabric facing out), baste your Back Self to Back Lining.  This now gets treated as one piece.

3. With Right Sides facing together, sew your Front Self along the curved crotch seam to the Back Self & Lining. Seam Allowances are 1/2″.
4. With right sides of lining facing, pin the Front Lining to the Back Lining & Back Self piece.  Your Back Lining and Back Self get sandwiched between the Front Self and Front Lining at this point. This gets a little confusing… what we are working towards is encasing the crotch seam between the lining and exterior fabric.

5. Clip and Grade back the crotch seam allowance, then fold your lining forward, towards your Front Self. You’ll now see that your seam allowance is hidden between your lining and exterior fabric.

6. Baste the Front Lining to Front Self around the outer edge. We can now treat this as 1 single piece.

7. Stitch side seams together. I’m using my serger, but you can use a zig zag stitch if you wish.
8. Apply elastic around the waist and leg openings to the wrong side (lining side) of the garment.  I’m using a serger to apply my elastic, but you can also zig-zag stitch it on.

 9. Turn the elastic under, and top stitch down using a twin needle.

And there you are… ready for some fun on the beach!

Mini Pattern Hack: Adjusting the Cup Size of the Jasmine Bra

Tutorial May 16, 2014


The Jasmine Bra (available in my sewing pattern shop, Ohhh Lulu Sews) is a great bra pattern for a first-time lingerie sewist! It is simple to assemble, and will give you experience applying lingerie elastic.  It’s a comfortable bralette that can accommodate a number of sizes with some simple pattern adjustments. I use this pattern a lot myself.  You may remember I made a boned bikini top with it last summer.  I’ll also show you how to add padding in another Pattern Hack Post. 
First we need to know a little something about how cup size works. Cup size is basically the difference between your Bust & Band measurements.  For the novice seamstress, your bust measurement is measured around the fullest part of your bust, and your band measurement is measured around your ribcage, just below your breasts where your bra band sits.  In general, each Cup Letter represents 1″ difference in Bust and Band measurements.  So, as an example, if you have a 30″ band measruement and a 34″ bust measruement, you should fit a 30D bra.  This is not a fool proof method, but a guideline for finding a size that fits you best.  The person with a 30 band and 34 Bust may well find that a C cup is more comfortable or that they prefer a looser band.  Regardless, this is often a good starting point. 
 I have drafted the Jasmine Bra for about a B/C cup size, which is a very common cup size.  If you are below or above that cup size, you will likely want to make some pattern adjustments.
If you are an A or AA cup, you may generally have a 0-2″ difference in bust to band measurement. As a result, you will want to straighten out the curve of the cup (See the illustration below in the orange ink).  The front princess seam gets taken in at the bust apex, which is approximately 3.5″ up from the lower edge of the pattern piece.  When reducing the cup, I haven’t adjusted the height of the pattern pieces, just straightened out the curve of that front seam.  

If you are a D-DD Cup (or larger!), you will want to exaggerate the curve of the cup as well as increase the height to provide better coverage.  Here, in purple ink, I’ve increased the bust curve by 1/2″ on each pattern piece at the apex. I’ve also extended the top of the cup by 1/2″.

Because this pattern is to be sewn in stretch knits, the fit is really quite flexible.  If you are above a DD (this includes myself!), you may find that this simple adjustment, adding 1″ to the bust apex + a bit of height, will be all you need to get a better fit.  Remember, it is really important when sewing any garment, but especially lingerie, that you sew a mock up first in a fabric of a similar weight and stretch.  This way, you can make any pattern adjustments to get a truly custom fit!

Ohhh Lulu Pattern Hacks: Jane Bikini Cut Panties to Ruffle Bloomers.

Tutorial May 12, 2014

Back in the day, I used to make a lot of these… They were super popular but a lot of work! You can make your own using my Jane Bikini Cut pattern + some lace, chiffon, or ruffle-able fabric of your choice.  I make these Ruffle Bloomers with two layers of raw-edged ruffles. They are great for special occasion lingerie, under a full skirt, or to wear to bed!
Before I start with the Pattern Hack, Here are a few variations I have done of over the years.  My preference for ruffle fabric is lace or chiffon, but you can also use quilting cotton, or self fabric – basically any fabric that won’t fray too badly when torn.
Ruffle Bloomers in woven cotton with lace ruffles and ruffle elastic trim.

Ruffle Bloomers in rose print chalis with lace ruffles.

Ruffle Bloomers in plaid flannel with coordinating ruffles.

 What you will need:
Jane Bikini Cut Panties Pattern (you can find it, along wtih other lingerie sewing patterns at Ohhh Lulu Sews)
Supplies for Jane Bikini Cut Panties (indicated on pattern)
Lace Fabric, Chiffon, or Fabric for Ruffling (fabric needs to be 54-60″ wide)

1. Assemble your Jane Bikini Cut Panties according to the directions in the pattern, but do not apply elastic  If this is your first time sewing the Jane Bikini Cut pattern, be sure to first sew a mock-up in muslin or scrap fabric.  These panties are made of woven fabric with no stretch, so it is important to test the fit! You should end up with bikini cut panties with NO elastic around the waist or legs.
2. Prepare your Ruffle Fabric.  Cut two lengths of fabric approximately 1.5″-2″ wide. Cut each strip in half, so you now have 4 x 27″-30″ long strips of fabric. Round off the end of each strip, so that it comes to a soft point (see picture below for details).
TIP! If you are using Lace, cut the fabric with a rotary cutter for a nice clean edge.  If you are using a woven fabric such as quilting cotton or chiffon, snip into the fabric, on a 90 degree angle to the selvedge, then tear the strips across.  This will create a perfectly straight edge, with a soft frayed edge.

3. Make Ruffles!  Stitch a row of basting stitch along the curved edge of the strip.  When you come to the end, leave a long tail of thread.  Grab a hold of your bobbin side thread, and gather the lace.  Press each ruffled strip flat.
TIP! If you are using Lace, you may need to sew your basting stitches by hand.  Some times when machine basting through lace, you might find that the stitches “lock” so test it out first on a piece of scrap lace.
Baste along the curved edge of your strip
Create gathers, then press each strip flat.

 4. Stitch Ruffles onto the leg openings of your panties.  Starting about 1.5″ up from the front crotch seam, pin the ruffle to the right side of the panties, along the leg opening.  The end should stop about 1.5″ from the back crotch seam.  You may need to adjust the ruffles with your hands so that it is evenly distributed over the hip. The first ruffle will get stitched approximately 3/4″ in from the raw edge of the leg opening of the panties, leaving just enough room to finish the leg openings with elastic for our final step.  Use a zig zag stitch to apply the ruffle. Apply one ruffle to each side in the same manner.

5. Stitch second layer of ruffles around leg opening.  Layering the second ruffle just above the first, stitch it down with a zig-zag stitch. Repeat on both sides.

 7. Apply Elastic around leg and waist openings using the instructions in your Jane Bikini Cut Pattern.

8. Finish with a bow or embellishments of your choice! Use satin ribbon to tie a bow and stitch on by hand.


Happy Sewing!

Grace + Jasmine Bikini!

Tutorial, Uncategorized July 5, 2013
Before I went on my mini-vacation, I made myself a couple bikinis.  Bikini tops have always been a hard fit for me.  I have a petite band – about 28″, and a comparatively large bust, about 36″.  Ready to Wear tops never fit tightly under the bust, nor do they provide adequate coverage.  So, using the Jasmine Bra Pattern and the Grace Panties Pattern I whipped up a couple bikinis with some minor alterations.
The Jasmine Bra is really easy to alter.  First, it is cut in stretch fabrics so the fit is forgiving.  Second, there is really only one seam to alter – the side front princess seam.  To fit me, I adjust the height and the curve of the cup. Here is an example of how I would adjust the Side Front Pieces to accommodate a large bust:band ratio.  For myself, I only added about 1/2″ to the total height of the bra, and about 1/2″ to the bust apex (the fullest part of the bust).  I then blended those extensions into the existing lines.  I then did the same to the adjacent Center Front princess seam. Depending on your size, and stretch to the fabric you are using, you might want to add more or less.  I wanted a tight fit across the bust to prevent any slipping and to take some weight off the halter ties.
The second alteration I made was to the band.  I wanted to use a 1/2″ wide hook to fasten the back of my bikini top, so I had to reduce the width of the CB band, as well as add a small extension.  To do this, marked on my CB line the width of the hook opening, which was 1/2″. I then added Seam Allowance to the top and bottom, and ended up with  a band that tapered to 1.5″ wide.  I also extended the band by 1/2″ so I could thread the band through the hook and create a loop on the other side.
I did a few things differently when I sewed the garment.  First, I lined the entire thing, including the band with knit lining, which is important for a bikini top – it provides a little more support and prevents the suit from clinging. I also added some gentle ruching to the CF seam.  To do this, I flat lined the CF pieces (but do not baste these pieces together!), pressed the Seam Allowance (SA) open, and using pinking shears, trimmed the SA back. Using a wide Zig Zag Stitch, I tacked down a length of elastic, then pulling the elastic, continued applying it over the center front seam, on the inside.  The tension of the elastic should create gentle ruching.  If you want more exaggerated gathers, run two rows of baste stitches along either side of the seam, pull to gather, then apply the elastic over top of that (not applying tension to the elastic).
Flatline your CF Pieces, and press your seam open.  
Add soft ruching with elastic down the CF.
I wanted a bikini that I wouldn’t have to worry about folding over or slipping, so I decided to add plastic boning to the Side Front and Side Seams.  This does not really support the bust, but gives the top shape and prevents it from folding down. I stitched the Side Front Seams of my exterior fabric, so that the seam allowance was on the inside (just like you normally would). The lining should be left loose at this point – only attached at the CF.
I had some un-covered plastic bones in my stash.  I cut 1.25″ strips of swim lining, to use as casings.  I wanted to use a casing that would allow my suit to keep stretching.  Layering two strips, I stitched the casings on to the inside of the Self (fashion fabric), overtop of the princess seams creating a 1/2″ channel, then using pinking shears, trimmed back any excess.  I then cut my bones approximately 1″ shorter than the length of my opening, maybe even slightly shorter.  I rounded the ends with scissors, and inserted  it into the casing, between the 1st and 2nd layers of lining. In the photo below, you can see a sample I sewed where I also boned the CF seam.  Do not bone the CF seam if you are adding ruching.

Bone casings are added to the inside of the Self Fabric.  Use a double layer of lining to prevent your bones from working through. Do not bone the CF seam if you are adding ruching.
Insert your bone into the casing, between the two layers.
Now that the Side Front Seams are boned, I sewed on the Side Front Lining to the Center Front Lining piece, so that the seam allowance would turn towards the inside and would be completely incased.  Once the entire front of the garment was sewn and lined, I stitched on the band at the side seam, treating the self and lining as one. I finished the side seam and then top stitched it down, 1/2″ away from the SA, to create a side seam bone casing.  I then added a small bone to each side seam. I did not stitch on an interior casing here, because you will already have a lot of bulk, between the Self + Lining of the band, and Self+Lining of the Side Front.
After that, the constructing is pretty straight forward.  I added elastic along the top and bottom, stitched on my back hook, and added long, thin halter ties.  You could easily add straps, or a wider ties, whatever your heart desires. 

Below you can see how nicely this method works… you end up with a boned top that also has fully encased seams.

 The bottoms are much more straight forward.  I cut a size medium for myself. I fully lined the Center Front and Center Back pieces with knit swim lining.  I also added elastic around the leg to prevent it from”creeping” while in the water.

Here it is at the beach!