I’m envious of those sewists who plan things out thoroughly and sew with intention and precision. That’s not to say my sewing isn’t excellent. I am very confident in the quality of my construction methods and demand a high level of quality from myself especially when making something for others. However, my methods can be quite chaotic… and I think there is actually some benefit to this chaos. I often come up with new ideas and techniques along the way. My mom always jokes with me that I don’t follow any of the rules and yet still end up with something beautiful.
I decided to turn this chaos into a series on my YouTube channel. I’ll just show you my designing/construction process, complete with the mistakes I make a long the way. I always liked that Bob Ross quote, “Happy accident.” So often a little mistake in my design will turn turn into a feature with a little creativity. For me, a design isn’t something I always initially see in completion. I get the idea or the feeling, and let it take a life of its own.
For this first episode, I wanted to use my Birch pattern (my current favourite for day-to-day wear), but I wanted to sew it entirely out of a relatively narrow stretch scalloped lace. I also prioritize comfort these days, so I wanted to sew them in a way that they would be pretty, but still comfortable for chasing after a toddler, working, and walks about town.
I’m really trying to grow my YouTube Channel. As I think more about what makes me happy, it’s just creating. Videos like this allow me to make practical use of that creative spark. I really appreciate the likes, comments and subs! It really does help the channel grow.
Affiliate disclosure: I may earn a small commission from applicable purchases made through the links in this post. This helps keep my website running! Thank you so much.
I’m working on a new sewing pattern that is specifically for stretch lace. I know sometimes it can be a real struggle to find stretch lace in the right width. Sometimes you find that just-right shade but it’s an inch or two too narrow. I’ve posted a photo tutorial on how to remedy this problem, but with my new lace pattern coming out, I thought I’d re-visit it in video form.
Can you spot where I fixed my too-narrow lace?
This tutorial is really simple. There’s no measuring. No adapting patterns… just some simple applique. I demonstrate my technique using the Claudia Pattern, but this works for pretty much any sewing pattern that requires a scalloped stretch lace. If you’re looking for stretch lace, Mint Frog on Etsy has a great selection!
I’ve really been enjoying uploading to YouTube and my blog more often. As easy as Instagram and Tiktok are for quick posts, it’s nice to spend a little time and hash things out in a longer format.
I was feeling really good last month. I was productive and things seemed to be getting back to “normal,” with my kids in school and daycare regularly…. no threats of further shut downs. But then having Oliver pass… then Lila in the hospital… then Isabel & I with the flu… and daycare went on vacation… and now Dan is sick… I feel like I’m starting over again. It always seems like once I lose that momentum, it’s so hard to pick it back up again.
On the bright side, business is busy again. I’m hoping I can pace myself in such a way that I still have time for posting more on YouTube, just because I really enjoy it!
I reluctantly decided upon parenthood. I was always more the “cool aunt” type but I’ve got to admit, I love being a parent and 3 year olds, despite their tantrums and attitude, are pretty awesome. One of the things I love most about having a kid, is sewing for kids!!!
When Izzy started potty training (glad that’s a thing of the past), I started making her her own undies (naturally). A couple years ago for Christmas, I made her up a bunch of matching cami and underwear sets. She really loved them and I did too. So recently, I decided to dive into the world of childrens pattern grading. I have ZERO experience grading for kids, so this was an endeavour for me!
The patterns aren’t quite ready yet, but they will be soon. I wanted to give a little sneak peek of what you can expect.
Izzy is kind of (ok, seriously) obsessed with YouTube videos. The other day she was quietly playing by herself, chatting away, when I caught her say “Let me know in the comments!” She was acting out her own little video. What a ham. So I asked her if she wanted to co-host one of mine, which she did. So, here it is. We talk about chickens. Izzy loves chickens. Our new puppy Leah also makes a guest appearance.
Speaking of puppy, look at her! I took a few photos a few weeks ago and she has already changed so much! Her ears are entirely pointy now and she’s getting quite the little personality. She’s a snuggler, but a bit bossy around Oliver. I’m looking forward to starting training classes with her soon.
Something you may not know about me is that I am obsessed with the creepier side of life… although I’m a skeptic, I just love ghost stories and the like. I also love history, specifically women’s history.
As an aside, my favourite movie as a kid was Beetlejuice and I basically styled myself after Lydia Deets (which is now my cats name, you’ll see her in the video).
These interests have been with me for as long as I can remember. As a teenager it led me into learning about wicca and the history of (western) witchcraft. It’s all fascinating stuff. More recently, I’ve become obsessed with Victorian Spiritualism. Spectral photography, spirit boards, table tipping… it’s all so eerily beautiful.
I think about how witchcraft was used as a tool to silence women who dared to step outside the confines of what was deemed “appropriate behaviour.” It’s a sad, scary, fascinating part of our history. It serves as a metaphor for so many instances throughout history and our lives.
I also love the meaning we imbue on objects, like a certain type of flower or crystal or card. I don’t believe a chunk of rock intrinsically has any power, but the meaning we place in it is a powerful thing.
One of the things that draws me to these topics, I think, is my weird obsession of death. It scares me. Terrifies me. I’m not really a spiritual person myself. I don’t actually believe in an afterlife, but I wish I did. The thing that draws me to spiritualism and magick is the possibility of something else. We all want that don’t we?
Loss and death is what a lot of my anxiety tends to revolve around. I know I’m getting better because I spend a lot less time thinking about it than I used to. Now I think of it in a, “It’s interesting how people used to be drawn to Spiritualism as a way to deal with the ever present threat of death,” instead of just being terrifyingly aware of my own, and everyone around me, mortality.
I have to laugh a bit because this post makes me seem pretty dark. I’m not. These are just the things that interest me. They always have. I’ve always been a weird woman! It’s actually something I really like about myself. And I know if it were 500 years ago, I’d probably be burned at the stake (HA!).
In my personal life, I tend to thrive on a bit of a low-key routine. Creatively, I like to push my boundaries and try new things. I enjoy the physical process of learning a new skill or technique. I also like the adrenaline rush when I put something “new” out into the world. I’m feeling that with this post and the little teaser video I made. It’s so strange to see myself, moving and looking back at me! But I like how it came together, and I wanted to show how my pieces move and look in as close to “real life” as I can get over a computer. I feel slightly scared, and a little excited. It’s basically my favourite combination of feelings!
You’ll be seeing new items pop up in my shop over the next day or two. I’ll be releasing some of these pieces as sewing patterns as well, so stay tuned!
You can see some more of what’s been inspiring me over on Pinterest. I always make a little “inspiration” board when I’m working on new things.
Way back when, I wrote up a tutorial on padding the Jasmine Bra with balconette style pre-formed cups. Over the last few months, I’ve been experimenting with a new method, using cut and sew foam.
Cut and sew foam is available through most bra making suppliers. There are lots of options, but I recommend Bra Makers Supply in Canada or Arte Crafts in the US. Cut and sew foam is quite thin, maybe 1/8″ or so thick. It has some 2-way stretch. Adding foam to your soft bras will add a little bit of body and structure, as well as a little extra coverage if you are concerned about visible nipples. My personal preference is still for non-padded bras, but this is a nice option if the things above are of concern to you! Or, if you just want to try something new. I will say, I’ll be adding this to my bikini top sewing repertoire, but I’m still not sure padded bras are for me.
Aside from the foam, you won’t need any other special supplies – just what it outlines in the pattern for a lined bra.
Feeling cozy!
The method for assembling the bra with foam padding is essentially the same as a lined Jasmine. The main difference comes with how we will finish the interior seams.
Instructions:
Begin by cutting out your pieces. Cut the bra exactly as you normally would, but also cut out the cup pieces in cut and sew foam.
Place the Centre Front Self/Exterior pieces right side together, aligning the CF seam. Place a piece of foam over top of that, then the lining pieces with the right sides facing each other. Finish with the final piece of foam. Stitch together down the centre front seam.
Trim back both pieces of foam as close to the stitching line as possible.
Open the Front up, separating one half of the foam. With your fingers, press the seam allowance towards the foam.
Using a zig-zag stitch, top stitch the seam allowance to the foam. When your needle “zigs” to the left, it should just catch that little bit of foam left in your seam allowance. The idea here is to flatten the seam, and in addition, the zig-zag stitching almost acts as an understitch, helping the lining and exterior fabrics fall into place.
Trim back the seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and open the Centre Front pieces.
To assemble the rest of the cup, place the Side Front Self/Exterior against the Centre Front curved cup seam so that the right sides are facing. Place the Side Front foam against the wrong side of the Side Front Self. Flip the garment over, and then place the lining down the curved seam, sandwiching the Centre Front between the Side Front Self/Foam and Lining. Stitch together.
Once again, trim back both pieces of foam seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible.
Fold the seam allowance towards the Side Front Foam, pushing the Side Front self and lining towards the centre front.
Just like you did with the centre front seam. Zig zag stitch the seam allowance to the Side Front foam.
Trim back the remaining seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and flip the Side Front self and lining over the foam.
Attach your Back Band pieces as indicated in the pattern instructions and sew on the band elastic. It is very important that you trim any excess fabric beyond your band stitching line back to allow the bra to fold under properly.
Top stitch the band elastic in place. Be careful here, it gets quite thick. Go slowly and take your time! Finish the upper edge with Fold Over Elastic as outlined in the instructions, and complete the bra with a back closure and straps.
I would say this is more of an “advanced” tutorial. It can be quite tricky to get all of the layers to line up properly. That is definitely the most challenging part. Getting the fit just right is also a little more of a challenge because the foam will limit the vertical stretch of the bra, which tends to be more of an issue for the DD+ crowd.
If you prefer video format, I’ve uploaded a quick tutorial on how to add foam padding to the Romy Bra:
… And how to add padding the the Lace Jasmine Variation!
Ugh… I’m sick! Isabel came down with a cold late last week and I seem to have gotten it. In a way, it’s good timing to be laid up with a sore throat and aches and pains since I have a lot of computer work to do on the couch…
I posted a new video on my YouTube Channel last week with some Ohhh Lulu related updates. I’ll be finishing up most of what I talked about here over the next couple of days…
Summertime tends to be a little quieter work wise, which is nice because life tends to be a little busier around that time of year. Dan had a couple of weeks vacation. We didn’t really do much, just a few day trips and did some work around the house.
When I first saw our house I fell in love right away… You know how when you first start dating someone, you see all of their wonderful aspects, but it’s not until you’ve been dating for a while that you start to see their flaws? That happened with this house (ha!). I saw all of the wonderful bones of the house and some how didn’t notice until I moved in that the exterior was only half painted. Every single wall was half painted. It was like someone started painting all of the easy bits, then when the job got too high to reach, they stopped.In my defence, I was juggling a 1 year old, a business, and a pending nervous breakdown (only semi-joking). The side entry and kitchen also had some water damage, which was repaired by the seller prior to closing. Big mistake. The person who did the repair did a really crappy job. We’ve stayed dry, but the drywall job in the side entry was terrible. There were huge gaps between the door frame, baseboards and milk door that no one bothered filling and the side entry was left three different colours. It took me a good portion of a morning to fill and patch that area and we ended getting the painters who did the exterior of our house to paint this area white. The ceiling in this area was super high and would have been difficult to do on my own.
So many things went wrong with the closing of this house that I’m still irritated about. Our lawyer totally screwed up our closing and was unhelpful, the house was filthy (like disgusting filthy… like a pile of rotting food in the backyard, a tampon under the stove filthy), there was junk left everywhere despite stipulations in our purchase agreement… We ended up renting a dumpster over the summer to get rid of all of the previous owners old junk which cost us almost $400. SO frustrating! I think what upsets me more than the additional expenses we incurred, was the TIME it took to address all of the things went wrong… I wish I had’ve been in a better mental state when we first moved in because I should have sued to cover the extra costs we encounter… However, I’m super happy with the house now. I just am having a hard time letting go.
We had the exterior of the house painted white (actually a very very pale grey), and used a darker grey on the shutters. The wood shutters were in pretty rough condition, but with a little TLC, a lot of caulking and fresh paint they have a little more life left in them! I also painted the front door bright blue for a pop of colour. I love how it looks, fresh and modern colours on a traditional storybook cottage base. We also put up a new, more modern light fixture. We’re supposed to be having new soffit and fascia installed as ours is in very rough shape but I haven’t heard boo from the company we hired for a little while… So hopefully that is still happening!
Our poor shutters pre-painting.
Painted and pretty!
Isabel started at a new daycare this month. I was so sad to hear that her previous daycare provider was going back to work for a local school board. We had such a great connection with her and the kids there! But we were lucky to find someone else who is close by, and happens to have some chickens, which (aside from horses and dogs) are Isabel’s favourite animal (a frequently heard phrase in our house is “Mom, let’s talk about chickens.”). Isabel is a pretty amazing kid. She is so easy going and flexible as far as changes go. She’s adapted so well to the new daycare. I, on the other hand, have a hard time adjusting to changes like these and find myself missing the old daycare! Mostly, my morning chats with her provider…
We’ve also started a few other things this month. Isabel went for her first swimming lesson two weeks ago, and is starting gymnastics at the end of the month. I’m loving this stage of parenthood. She is developing her own interests and her personality is really coming out. She is sweet and funny, loves horses and dancing, but also likes to fix things with her dad and get dirty in the garden. I’m amazed every day by how smart and well spoken she is for an almost-three-year-old. She just is the light of my life.
Practicing her dance moves.
This summer I’ve made time for some fun crafty things too. I made little owl “good bye” gifts for the daycare kids, as well as an owl costume for Isabel. I also made up a whole bunch of dress up items, like butterfly wings, unicorn and deer headbands and crowns for Isabel and a friend of hers. I love making these little things.
Lastly, I’ve got a new obsession… a dollhouse! This dollhouse was made by my uncle for my cousin Amanda years ago (like 20 years or so). After he passed away, it got stored at my parents house where it had a bit of an accident (got knocked over). I couldn’t bare to see it go to waste so I stored it in my attic for another 5 years. A few weeks ago I dragged it downstairs, got out some glue and started putting it back together. I took off the gingerbread trim, added a plain fascia and fresh paint. I did a bit of “landscaping,” made the first floor open concept, and am waiting on new flooring to arrive. I look forward to working on this every day! It has been so much fun and a nice change of pace from lingerie.
So, it’s been a busy summer. I’m looking forward to cooler weather and longer nights.
The Ava Pattern is my favourite pattern to use for making bikini bottoms. I find the cut to be comfortable and flattering on my figure. Perfect for chasing toddlers around on the beach, or just a more retro vibe.
In this short video tutorial I’ll show you how to sew the Ava Pattern as a swimsuit bottom. It’s very simple, but I use some different techniques to finish the waist and legline so it looks less lingerie and more beach.
You’ll need a couple different supplies. First of all, you’ll need swim-appropriate fabric, so something like a nylon spandex/lycra blend is ideal. In my Cindy Bikini Post, I outline some places to buy swimsuit fabric. You’ll also need swimsuit lining, in the same yardage as your exterior fabric.
You’ll also need swim elastic, so something that is chlorine resistant, though really almost any plain elastic will do. Just looking for something 1/4″-3/8″ wide. The elastic is not visible on the finished garment, but I try to get something that coordinates with my exterior fabric – white for light coloured bathing suits and black for darker fabrics. I also use a twin needle. I’ve used the Ava Pattern for my swimsuit, but really any panty pattern you like should work!
Here’s the Tutorial! Subscribe to my channel to be the first to see new videos.
Share your makes with me on Instagram, use the hashtag #OLSBikini so I can see them!
Looking for a weekend summer sewing project? I’ve got just the thing for you!
I made one of these bikinis last summer and I wore it SO often to the beach with Isabel. We are lucky to have a nice sandy beach just down the road and we spend a lot of time down there (not so much this rainy summer though!).
I used my Cindy Pattern to make this bikini top. My Cindy Pattern is a fairly simple to sew underwire bra with full coverage through the cups and a long-line band. This bra is designed to be sewn with stretch fabric through the cups. It’s a personal preference of mine, I’m not a big fan of foam or rigid cups. I like a softer fit and look.
I altered the pattern just slightly by omitting the centre back pattern pieces and cutting off the “tabs” on the upper cups.
I love this pattern as a bikini top because it is supportive and offers coverage while still being stylish and a little sexy.
You’ll need the same basic materials as you would if you were sewing the top as a bra, but with a couple of substitutions. You’ll need swimsuit fabric – so a fabric that is normally a nylon / spandex / lycra blend. You’ll also need swimsuit lining – I use it to line the cups. The band is lined in power mesh. Get a little bit of extra fabric to use as your binding and straps. I also use some rubber swim elastic, but pretty much any plain elastic will do! Look for something 3/8″ or narrower.
I’ve decided to offer this tutorial in a two part video series on my YouTube Channel. It’s quite long, with each part being about 30 minutes.
My local Fabricland sells an assortment of swimsuit fabric and some lining, but I find they tend to be pretty expensive. The Sport Lycra from Spoonflower (which I used here) is amazing and comes in endless prints. I’m pretty sure Fabric.com also has an assortment of swimwear fabrics. Spandex World is also a great resource, though if you’re in Canada, shipping can be expensive. I also always recommend supporting Etsy sellers!
Here is Part 1 of the tutorial:
And Part 2:
In this video series, I show you how to sew self-binding with encased elastic. I like this finish for swimwear as it provides some extra stability to your openings, and when top stitched with a twin needle, gives a professional finish. These finishes and techniques can easily be applied to other sewing patterns too!
I was excited to take some of these pictures in my very lush back yard and newly decorated back porch. The previous owner of our house did an amazing job landscaping. Other than maintenance, there’s not much to do with our yard. It’s a gardeners delight. Isabel loves to run around the paths and play explorer. Just last weekend Dan and I spent some time putting up some curtains, lights and other bits and bobs in the back porch. When I first saw this house it’s part of why I fell in love with it. It feels like my very own cottage.
A few weeks ago I posted a short video about how my sewing table is set up. A few people mentioned wanting to see my entire space… I was a little reluctant because to be honest, it is a mess. Last weekend, Isabel came down to do a little work with me and exclaimed “Mommy! Why’d you make such a mess again!” So I tidied up a bit, and decided now was as good a time as ever to show you around.
My sewing space is not glamorous, but it is big, bright, and all mine. It’s a bit of a mess, and less organized than I would like, but I really have no right to complain. I’m fortunate to have such a space at my disposal! One of the benefits of living almost in the middle of nowhere is that we can actually afford a fairly big house on a lingerie-maker & mechanics two salaries.
I am super fortunate to actually have two spaces in my house that I use for work – my entire basement and a room at the corner of our house with lots of light, which is perfect for photography. In our old house everything was crammed into one bedroom. It feels really good to have the space to have a home for everything, and to be able to shut the door at the end of the week, and (try) not to worry about work for a bit.
The best part of this video is that Oliver made a cameo!
Two weeks ago he had surgery to remove some teeth as well as a lump on his head that turned out to be a mast cell tumor. It was scary waiting for the results after the lump was removed but I was relieved to find out that out of all the mast cell tumors he could have had, his was the “best” kind to have in that it was extremely slow growing and they were able to remove the entire mass. Oliver is 10, and his age is starting to show… But now that he has recovered he seems to have more energy again which is great!
I think it was a year ago or so that I first posted a photo on Instagram of this camisole… As I mentioned in my video post a couple of weeks ago, I went back and forth on a bunch of things (darts, fullness, etc.) and toyed with various ways to write up these rather complicated instructions. The pattern itself is very simple – just two pattern pieces! But there are just so many ways you can sew it – dressed up or dressed down!
Anyway… without further adieu, here is the Kate Camisole!
So far, of all of the variations I’ve sewn, I think this one in Cotton + Steel Rifle Paper Co. challis is my favourite. Even Isabel has asked for one in her size! I absolutely love this print and fabric.
The pattern comes with instructions on how to add a ruffle – I give suggestions as to how long to cut your ruffle, but you could even experiment with cutting an extra long ruffle band to turn the top into a flowy, bohemian summer dress.
I experimented sewing these tops out of linen, chiffon, double gauze, gauze, challis and silk charmeuse. I think my favourite fabric to work with for this style is rayon challis. It is just so light and drapey. Silk charmeuse is a close second.
The Kate pattern is an excellent pair for with any of my woven bottoms, like the Jane or Miyu panties. But remember, you can also use a woven fabric for the front of my Claudia Panties too! It works great in silk.
You can purchase the Kate Camisole pattern directly from my website HERE or on Etsy!
To view a video-tutorial outlining the basic construction methods, hop on over to my Youtube Channel!
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