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New Pattern Preview! A Cami and a Bodysuit

Design Diary, Sewing Patterns, Videos

I’ve been working really hard on two new patterns… one of them (my camisole pattern) is a year in the making! I’m currently just finishing up writing the instructions and am still waffling back and forth on some aspects of the design and construction. I always like to design patterns that can be sewn in multiple ways – I find it to be a fun creative exercise seeing how much variety I can get out of a simple pattern. This can create some difficulty when putting a pattern together.  The patterns I sell are much different than the patterns I would make for my own use, or even for production. I put a lot of time and effort into explaining things so that a sewists of a variety of backgrounds and experience levels can sew my patterns. As with all of my patterns, I try to teach techniques instead of spoon-feeding how to recreate a garment. I love seeing the unique ways all of you interpret my designs!

I made a short video discussing my new patterns that are so close to being ready for release.

I’m super excited to start prepping for my swimsuit sew along! My fabric should be arriving this week, so once I clear a few projects off my table I’ll set a date.

Sewing Table Tour

Videos

I posted a little tour on YouTube of how I have my sewing table organized. I’ve worked out a pretty good set up over the years. Once I get tidied up a bit, I’ll show you the rest of my space! It’s not glamorous, but it works!

Not So Plain Jane

New Items, Sewing Patterns, updates, Videos

When I first started making lingerie about 8 or 9 years ago, nice knits were really hard to find. So I was determined to develop some patterns that would let me use all of those pretty, printed woven fabrics in lingerie.

The Jane Pattern was first released in 2013. It’s a simple bikini cut that never goes out of style. The best thing about this pattern is that it can be sewn in nearly any woven fabric… but my favourites are silk charmeuse and chiffon.

I’ve just updated the Jane Pattern to include additional sizes, more in depth instructions, and a few different ways to sew them!

The new instructions will walk you through how to add a ruffle ot the hip, how to add a keyhole cut out to the back with bias ties or a simple bound edge. With this pattern, my goal is to teach you techniques so you can apply these design ideas in different ways to this pattern, and other patterns you may already own!

I’ve felt super inspired by this pattern. It’s a great base for adding lace overlays, appliques, or any number of embellishments… or leave ’em plain and let the fabric do the talking.

I’ve added a few new videos to my YouTube Channel to walk you through some of the more complicated aspects of this pattern.

You can purchase the Jane Pattern HERE or through my Etsy shop.

As usual, if you have already purchased this pattern, please contact me with your order number and I’ll send you the updated files.

Lola Update!

New Items, Sewing Patterns, updates, Videos

I’ve been revisiting some of my very first patterns. It’s been a fun exercise! I’ve been flexing my creative muscles to come up with new ways to style some of these basics.

My latest update is to the Lola Panties Pattern.

The Lola fits like a cheeky boy short. It is designed to be sewn with a simple hemmed legline, but can also be trimmed in lace.

The newest variation will walk you through how to sew these with a cut out over the hip.

This pattern walks you through 4 basic variations, but you could combine techniques to truly customize your style! My goal with all of my patterns is to teach you the techniques so that you can create really unique styles. I know that’s what I want when I buy a pattern!

In addition to the updated instruction and style variations, I’ve also graded the pattern up to an XXL.

These look similar to the Claudia Panties, but the fit is quite different. First, it has a two piece back which is quite cheeky. The Claudia has front seams, whereas the Lola has back seams. Lastly, the Lola can be sewn with a simple turned hem, whereas the Claudia needs elastic around the leg.

You can purchase the Lola Pattern HERE or through my Etsy Shop. If you have previously purchased the pattern and would like the update, please contact me with your order number and I’ll provide you with the update!

Annnnd…. If you check out my YouTube Channel, I’ve just posted a pretty in-depth video all about how to sew these cheeky undies!

The Celeste Bikini Cut Panties + FREE PDF Sewing Pattern!

New Items, Sewing Patterns, Videos

Happy Balentine’s Day! Isabel is convinced it is pronounced ‘Balentine’s Day.’ She also thinks today is her birthday for some reason.

I’ve prepared something special for you on this sexiest-day of the year:

a NEW pattern! and it also comes as a FREE version!

The Celeste is a skimpy bikini cut panty that gets sewn out of stretch knits. In the paid version, I show you how to sew the legs with stretch lace trim or elastic stabilized hems. I show you how to finish the waist three ways: fold over elastic, stretch lace trim, or picot elastic. As a BONUS I’ve included a pattern piece so that you can sew them with a scalloped lace back.

The FREE version will walk you through how to sew the panties with lace trim and a fold over elastic waist.

This is a great beginner pattern with lots of flexibility and versatility.

The Celeste Panties can be finished in a similar manner to the Claudia Panties (my favourite!), but have quite a different fit. I’ve made a short video discussing a few of the differences.

You can purchase the FULL Celeste PDF Pattern HERE

Or you can download the FREE version here!

Pattern Update: The Ava High Waist Panties

Design Diary, New Items, Sewing Patterns, updates, Videos

I’ve been so inspired lately, there aren’t enough hours in the day to get everything I done that I want to do!

This has been on my To-Do list for a while now: a re-vamp of the Ava Panties Pattern (Grace, Bambi & Lola are next on my re-vamp list). I’ve added an additional size and more indepth instructions, including multiple variations!

With the Updated Ava Pattern, I’ll walk you through how to finis the waist and legs in fold over elastic, how to add an optional scalloped lace overlay, and how to sew the panties with cutouts and adjustable strap waist.

I just uploaded a video to my YouTube Channel, walking through how to sew a basic pair of Ava Panties.

I also have released these items in my Made to Order collection. I have a very limited amount of this fabric, so don’t want if you want it! You can find this set in my Etsy Shop by clicking HERE.

You can purchase the Ava pattern on my website, or Etsy. If you have already purchased the pattern and would like an updated copy, please send me an email or message me on Etsy.

Valentine’s Sew Along: Bra Straps & Closure

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos

Now that the bra is basically assembled, it’s a great opportunity to “try it on”. Pull it on around you, like you normally would. It should fit snug with a small gap at the centre back where the closure will get applied. If you find you have some overlapping fabric, trim it back a bit.

Make sure that both sides of your Centre Back are the same length. Cut a strip of hook and eye tape about the same length as your Centre Back edge. Cut it so that you have some space between the cut edge and the first and last hook/eye.

With the tape left open, baste the hook side of the tape onto the inside of the righthand side of the bra. The hooks should be facing towards the inside of the garment. You might want to use a zipper foot here. I find that my regular foot is sufficient. I just move my needle into the right-most position.

Once that is basted on, fold the tape so that it is encasing the raw Center Back Edge, and top stitch down.

You do a very similar process on the other side with the “eye” side of the tape. Baste it on to the lefthand side of the bra so that the “eyes” are facing up. Then, fold the tape back down to bind that Centre Back Edge and top stitch in place. I use a tight, narrow zig-zag stitch to “seal” the upper and lower edge of the tape.

There are instructions in the pattern on how to assemble bra straps, but if you’re having any trouble, here is a step by step video:

Here is how I attach my bra straps:

I pin the strap so that the plush side of the strap is facing the inside of the bra. The strap is facing down. I do a row of stitching to anchor the strap in place.

I then fold the strap up, and to another row of stitching, with lots of back tacking to anchor it securely in place. This method hides the raw edge nicely so the strap area is not scratchy. I have sensitive skin, so if there is any slightly scratchy bit, I end up with a nasty rash. I’ve found this is the best way for me to finish the front strap.

On the back, I do a tight row of zig-zag stitching PLUS a row of straight stitching as close to the upper edge of the lace as possible, then trim back any excess strap elastic. I make sure to stitch the strap onto the elastic edging as that is the most stable part.

That’s it! That’s the Jasmine Bra, sewn in lace with a sheer lining and long-line band. Was there any step that you had trouble with that you need any more clarification on?

The next steps are going to be the Garter Belt portion. Just a reminder that I’ll be showing you two different garter belts. There’s the FREE Cora garter belt pattern, or the Mina Pattern (my personal fav!).

Valentine’s Sew Along: Adding a Longline Band to the Jasmine Bra

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos

Now that we have assembled the body of our Jasmine Bra, we can add the longline lace band, and band elastic.

To do this, simply cut a length of lace just slightly less long than your bra. I then cut my lace so that it was only about 2-3″ high.

With the right sides together, sew the new lace band to the lower edge of the bra. I use a zig-zag stitch so the garment retains it’s stretch.

I’m using a 3/4″ band elastic here, but you can use any width you prefer.

Place the band elastic so the plush side is facing up and the decorative edge is running along side your stitching line. Use a zig-zag stitch to apply the elastic along the seam allowance of the bra band. Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it in place. This creates a snug fit under the bust.

Trim back any excess fabric that extends beyond your stitching line.

Fold your band elastic up so that it is covering the seam allowance. Use a multi-step zig-zag stitch to top stitch in place. You’ll be stitching through your elastic, as well as the lined portion of the bra.

For those of you who prefer to follow along with a video, this one is for you!

Valentine’s Sew Along: Assembling the Jasmine Bra

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos

Once again, I planned on posting this yesterday then yesterday went by in a flash! But, this part of the sew along goes by fast, I promise!

I line my bras in one step so that the lining is anchored to the exterior fabric. I do it this way because it prevents slipping between the two layers, and once you get a hang of the technique, it makes lining a bra so fast!

In one of the first steps, I went over how to cut scalloped lace. Just a reminder that you need to trim your lining back by about 1/4″ along the neckline edge.

Begin by taking your Side Front Lace piece and place it so that the right side is facing up. Lay your Centre Front Lace piece on top so that the right sides are facing. You may want to baste these together along the curved cup seam at this point.

On top of that, place the Centre Front Lining on top of the Centre Front Lace piece (wrong sides are facing). Then, with the right sides of the lining facing each other, lay the Side Front Lining on top of that. Stitch together down the curved seam.

When you open up your layers, the cup is nicely lined in one action.

Pin the Band to the Side Front, and stitch in place.

If you are finding this  a bit confusing, this video will likely clear things up for you.

At this point, I take a length of plain old 3/8″ elastic, and use a multi-step zig-zag stitch to sew it to the wrong side each half of the bra along the upper edge. The elastic should run on top of the lining to anchor it to the bra. Make sure the elastic does not extend beyond the scalloped edge of the elastic. Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it on to contour the upper edge.

Once the neckline elastic is applied to both halves of the bra, pin it together down the centre front and stitch in place.

If you’d like more insight on how to add elastic along the upper edge, this video will walk you through in even more detail.