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How to use Boning for Added Support in Bras

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized November 8, 2018

One of the reasons I started making wire-free bras is because underwires, no matter what size I wear, end up giving me terrible chest and back pain by the end of the day. I just love the relaxed comfort of a soft bra.

That being said, sometimes you want to find ways to give your wire-free bras a little more structure. There are lots of different ways you can do this, from sewing them with wider band and strap elastic, to adding some light sew-in foam. Over the summer, I finally got around to experimenting with something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: adding boning to the sides of my Jasmine Bras.  Personally, I’m not a big fan of foam bras for myself. For me, a lightweight lace bra is my go-to, but I wanted to add a little more vertical structure.

What is boning?

Boning is best known for it’s use in corsetry, but it’s used in everything from longline bras to wedding dresses to swimwear! Basically, any garment where you need some vertical structure to prevent a garment from folding in on itself, OR when you want to create a garment that shapes the body, you’ll want to use boning.

There are a few different types of boning:

Rigelene / Sew-in boning – very lightweight plastic boning that can be sewn through and does not have a casing.

Plastic Boning – heavier than rigilene boning and often comes with a casing. Easy to cut and sew, but can form permanent bends when used in corsets or shaping garments.

Flat Spring Steel Boning – this boning is very rigid and great for use where a lot of vertical structure is needed, like on either side of corset laces.

Steel Spiral Boning – very flexible but strong steel boning made out of flattened coiled steel. This boning is great for use down side seams of corsets or structured evening dresses as it will bend around the curves of the waist and hips.

Although there are many ways to “install” boning, I usually like to use a casing. You can buy a tightly woven casing meant specifically for boning which I highly recommend using as it will prevent the bones from working their way through, but if you’re experimenting and are not ready to commit to purchasing supplies, bias or twill tape are good alternatives.

Most fabric stores will stock plastic and/or rigilene boning. You can find metal boning at larger bra and corset making supply shops, like Bra-Maker’s Supply.

For this particular bra, I used small pieces of Flat Spring Steel Boning and cotton bone casing, however I’ve made myself a couple of other bras using Plastic Boning that I like just as well. Truthfully, the bones are so small in this variation that either works well.

Installing the bones.

I assembled my Jasmine Bra in lace according to the pattern instructions.

Before finishing the seam allowance on the side seam and applying the upper elastic, stitch a length of bone casing to the seam allowance, along the side seam stitching line.

Trim back the seam allowance to approximately 1/4″.

Fold the casing down and top stitch in place along the opposite edge.

You now have a casing stitched to the bra side seam that will soon house your boning!

I decided to sew a second length of casing beside the side seam, running slightly on the diagonal. My goal  was to have it slightly follow the side of my breast.

Finish your upper edge according to the pattern instructions.

Measure out your boning so that it is at least 1″ shorter than the length of the casing. Remember, you need to leave enough room to stitch on the band elastic.

If you are using plastic boning, round off the ends of the boning and file down any rough or sharp bits. If you are using metal boning, finish the ends with metal boning tips. This will smooth out the ends of the boning so they won’t poke through.

Insert the bones into the casing, making sure you have left at least a 1″ gap at the bottom. From here, you can complete the assembly of the bra.

A very important note.

When you are ready to sew on your band elastic, please stitch very carefully past where your boning is. If you are using plastic boning, you may find that your sewing machine will just stitch through the boning, but if you have chosen metal, your sewing machine will spit needle shards at you.

Finishing Up.

Adding boning this way doesn’t change the overall look of the bra, but it does add some vertical structure which can help your bra stay more up-right while still being comfortable. Here’s another one I made, this time in a neutral beige lace (which had yet to have it’s straps sewn on). Leah thought it looked great! And honestly, it’s my current favourite bra.

 

How to add Cut & Sew Foam Padding to the Jasmine Bra (and more!)

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Videos September 20, 2017

Way back when, I wrote up a tutorial on padding the Jasmine Bra with balconette style pre-formed cups. Over the last few months, I’ve been experimenting with a new method, using cut and sew foam.

Cut and sew foam is available through most bra making suppliers. There are lots of options, but I recommend Bra Makers Supply in Canada or Arte Crafts in the US. Cut and sew foam is quite thin, maybe 1/8″ or so thick. It has some 2-way stretch. Adding foam to your soft bras will add a little bit of body and structure, as well as a little extra coverage if you are concerned about visible nipples. My personal preference is still for non-padded bras, but this is a nice option if the things above are of concern to you! Or, if you just want to try something new. I will say, I’ll be adding this to my bikini top sewing repertoire, but I’m still not sure padded bras are for me.

Aside from the foam, you won’t need any other special supplies – just what it outlines in the pattern for a lined bra.

Feeling cozy!

The method for assembling the bra with foam padding is essentially the same as a lined Jasmine. The main difference comes with how we will finish the interior seams.

Instructions:

Begin by cutting out your pieces. Cut the bra exactly as you normally would, but also cut out the cup pieces in cut and sew foam.

Place the Centre Front Self/Exterior pieces right side together, aligning the CF seam. Place a piece of foam over top of that, then the lining pieces with the right sides facing each other. Finish with the final piece of foam. Stitch together down the centre front seam.

Trim back both pieces of foam as close to the stitching line as possible.

Open the Front up, separating one half of the foam. With your fingers, press the seam allowance towards the foam.

Using a zig-zag stitch, top stitch the seam allowance to the foam. When your needle “zigs” to the left, it should just catch that little bit of foam left in your seam allowance. The idea here is to flatten the seam, and in addition, the zig-zag stitching almost acts as an understitch, helping the lining and exterior fabrics fall into place.

Trim back the seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and open the Centre Front pieces.

To assemble the rest of the cup, place the Side Front Self/Exterior against the Centre Front curved cup seam so that the right sides are facing. Place the Side Front foam against the wrong side of the Side Front Self. Flip the garment over, and then place the lining down the curved seam, sandwiching the Centre Front between the Side Front Self/Foam and Lining. Stitch together.

Once again, trim back both pieces of foam seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible.

Fold the seam allowance towards the Side Front Foam, pushing the Side Front self and lining towards the centre front.

Just like you did with the centre front seam. Zig zag stitch the seam allowance to the Side Front foam.

Trim back the remaining seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and flip the Side Front self and lining over the foam.

Attach your Back Band pieces as indicated in the pattern instructions and sew on the band elastic.  It is very important that you trim any excess fabric beyond your  band stitching line back to allow the bra to fold under properly.

Top stitch the band elastic in place. Be careful here, it gets quite thick. Go slowly and take your time! Finish the upper edge with Fold Over Elastic as outlined in the instructions, and complete the bra with a back closure and straps.

I would say this is more of an “advanced” tutorial. It can be quite tricky to get all of the layers to line up properly. That is definitely the most challenging part.  Getting the fit just right is also a little more of a challenge because the foam will limit the vertical stretch of the bra, which tends to be more of an issue for the DD+ crowd.

If you prefer video format, I’ve uploaded a quick tutorial on how to add foam padding to the Romy Bra:


… And how to add padding the the Lace Jasmine Variation!

Valentine’s Sew Along: Bra Straps & Closure

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos January 31, 2017

Now that the bra is basically assembled, it’s a great opportunity to “try it on”. Pull it on around you, like you normally would. It should fit snug with a small gap at the centre back where the closure will get applied. If you find you have some overlapping fabric, trim it back a bit.

Make sure that both sides of your Centre Back are the same length. Cut a strip of hook and eye tape about the same length as your Centre Back edge. Cut it so that you have some space between the cut edge and the first and last hook/eye.

With the tape left open, baste the hook side of the tape onto the inside of the righthand side of the bra. The hooks should be facing towards the inside of the garment. You might want to use a zipper foot here. I find that my regular foot is sufficient. I just move my needle into the right-most position.

Once that is basted on, fold the tape so that it is encasing the raw Center Back Edge, and top stitch down.

You do a very similar process on the other side with the “eye” side of the tape. Baste it on to the lefthand side of the bra so that the “eyes” are facing up. Then, fold the tape back down to bind that Centre Back Edge and top stitch in place. I use a tight, narrow zig-zag stitch to “seal” the upper and lower edge of the tape.

There are instructions in the pattern on how to assemble bra straps, but if you’re having any trouble, here is a step by step video:

Here is how I attach my bra straps:

I pin the strap so that the plush side of the strap is facing the inside of the bra. The strap is facing down. I do a row of stitching to anchor the strap in place.

I then fold the strap up, and to another row of stitching, with lots of back tacking to anchor it securely in place. This method hides the raw edge nicely so the strap area is not scratchy. I have sensitive skin, so if there is any slightly scratchy bit, I end up with a nasty rash. I’ve found this is the best way for me to finish the front strap.

On the back, I do a tight row of zig-zag stitching PLUS a row of straight stitching as close to the upper edge of the lace as possible, then trim back any excess strap elastic. I make sure to stitch the strap onto the elastic edging as that is the most stable part.

That’s it! That’s the Jasmine Bra, sewn in lace with a sheer lining and long-line band. Was there any step that you had trouble with that you need any more clarification on?

The next steps are going to be the Garter Belt portion. Just a reminder that I’ll be showing you two different garter belts. There’s the FREE Cora garter belt pattern, or the Mina Pattern (my personal fav!).

Valentine’s Sew Along: Adding a Longline Band to the Jasmine Bra

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos January 28, 2017

Now that we have assembled the body of our Jasmine Bra, we can add the longline lace band, and band elastic.

To do this, simply cut a length of lace just slightly less long than your bra. I then cut my lace so that it was only about 2-3″ high.

With the right sides together, sew the new lace band to the lower edge of the bra. I use a zig-zag stitch so the garment retains it’s stretch.

I’m using a 3/4″ band elastic here, but you can use any width you prefer.

Place the band elastic so the plush side is facing up and the decorative edge is running along side your stitching line. Use a zig-zag stitch to apply the elastic along the seam allowance of the bra band. Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it in place. This creates a snug fit under the bust.

Trim back any excess fabric that extends beyond your stitching line.

Fold your band elastic up so that it is covering the seam allowance. Use a multi-step zig-zag stitch to top stitch in place. You’ll be stitching through your elastic, as well as the lined portion of the bra.

For those of you who prefer to follow along with a video, this one is for you!

Valentine’s Sew Along: Assembling the Jasmine Bra

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos January 28, 2017

Once again, I planned on posting this yesterday then yesterday went by in a flash! But, this part of the sew along goes by fast, I promise!

I line my bras in one step so that the lining is anchored to the exterior fabric. I do it this way because it prevents slipping between the two layers, and once you get a hang of the technique, it makes lining a bra so fast!

In one of the first steps, I went over how to cut scalloped lace. Just a reminder that you need to trim your lining back by about 1/4″ along the neckline edge.

Begin by taking your Side Front Lace piece and place it so that the right side is facing up. Lay your Centre Front Lace piece on top so that the right sides are facing. You may want to baste these together along the curved cup seam at this point.

On top of that, place the Centre Front Lining on top of the Centre Front Lace piece (wrong sides are facing). Then, with the right sides of the lining facing each other, lay the Side Front Lining on top of that. Stitch together down the curved seam.

When you open up your layers, the cup is nicely lined in one action.

Pin the Band to the Side Front, and stitch in place.

If you are finding this  a bit confusing, this video will likely clear things up for you.

At this point, I take a length of plain old 3/8″ elastic, and use a multi-step zig-zag stitch to sew it to the wrong side each half of the bra along the upper edge. The elastic should run on top of the lining to anchor it to the bra. Make sure the elastic does not extend beyond the scalloped edge of the elastic. Gently pull on the elastic as you stitch it on to contour the upper edge.

Once the neckline elastic is applied to both halves of the bra, pin it together down the centre front and stitch in place.

If you’d like more insight on how to add elastic along the upper edge, this video will walk you through in even more detail.

Valentine’s Sew Along: Stabilizing & Finishing the Leg Line

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along, Videos January 21, 2017

This is a short and easy step, then we’re almost done the panties!

If you haven’t already, give the undies a try-on to make sure they don’t need to be taken in or let out at all.

Now, we need to stabilize the leg-line of our panties with some elastic. I’ve found that this gives the most comfortable fit and best finish. However, you may opt to simply turn the edges under and use a twin needle or zig-zag stitch to finish the raw edges of the gusset and sequin front.

I use a zig-zag stitch to apply the elastic to the inside of the garment along the Panties Front & Gusset. This step is why it was important in our last step to make sure that the gusset and sequin fabric overhang the scalloped edge of the lace by about 1/4″. The elastic will now get zig-zag stitched along that edge, then turned under and top stitched in place with a twin needle.

Before you apply the elastic, you may want to snip off any sequins running along the edge of the panties, so that you end up with a 1/4″-3/8″ strip of sequin-free area along the leg line.

The elastic here acts as a stabilizer and prevents these undies from stretching out uncomfortably during wear (or bunching and scrunching, no one needs that). You should only apply the tiniest about of tension. I’m using just a plain old knitted elastic that’s relatively thin and very stretchy.

Once the elastic has been zig-zag stitched onto either side, trim any excess fabric that extends beyond the edge of the elastic.

Turn the elastic under, towards the inside of the garment, and use a twin-needle to top stitch in place. Please make sure you have switched from a zig-zag stitch to a straight stitch, and go slowly over the sequin areas.

I’ve added a video to my YouTube channel that will walk you through these steps in even more detail.

We’re almost done sewing these pretty, sparkly undies already! I’ll post tomorrow about how to finish the waistline with fold over elastic, then we’ll move onto the bra.

 

 

Valentine’s Sew Along: Cutting Your Fabric

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along January 16, 2017

Now that we’ve gathered supplies, and prepared our patterns we can go ahead and cut into all of that pretty lace and sequin fabric.

Cut the sequin fabric is exactly the same as you would cut any other fabric. Fold it in half, and place your new upper front piece on the fold and cut 1. Be sure to use sharp scissors and be prepared to have sequins everywhere. You may not want to use your best fabric scissors to cut the sequin fabric, as the sequins can dull your scissors, but you still want to use a good, sharp pair. Remember to also cut your new upper front piece out of stretch mesh.

The ‘new’ lower-front piece gets cut out of the same lace you are using on the back of the panties. I folded my lace in half lengthways and cut 1 that way. Don’t forget to also use your Gusset Lining pattern piece with the additional 1/2″ seam allowance added to the upper edge to cut your lining – any cotton jersey will do.

The Claudia Panties Back get cut out exactly as indicated in in the pattern instructions, so that the straight lower edge is running along the scalloped edge.

In total, for the panties you should have the following pieces:

  1. Upper Front – Sequins
  2. Upper Front – Mesh
  3. Lower Front – Lace
  4. Gusset Lining – Cotton Jersey
  5. Panties Back – Lace

I’ve made a video showing you exactly how I cut out my stretch lace, so if you need a little more info, this is for you!

The Jasmine Bra gets cut the same as in the pattern instructions. We’ll be adding the longline band in a later step, so don’t worry about that part quite yet.

Here is a “how-to” video on how to place your Jasmine Pattern on scalloped lace.

Don’t forget to also cut the Jasmine Front and Side Front out of stretch mesh for lining.

The most important thing to remember when using scalloped lace is to make sure the motif is mirrored on either side. Take some extra time to make sure that when you fold your lace in order to cut 2 of each piece, that the scallops and motif of the lace all line up.

If you find that your lace is a little too short for the Panties Back, I’ve got some tips on how to make-do in a separate post, Tips & Tricks for Sewing Scalloped Lace.

Now it’s on to the fun stuff!

New Pattern! The Claudia Panties Pattern

Lingerie, Sewing Patterns, Tutorial December 19, 2016

This is my favourite pattern ever (besides the Jasmine bra). I think I may have actually already made 100 of these, maybe even more!!! I am obsessed.

So, what is it that I love about this pattern, you ask? This pattern has the one thing I strive for in a pattern: versatility. You can achieve so many different looks with this one easy pattern.  Included in the instructions are directions on how to sew them with a pretty lace back with picot elastic around the front OR plain elastic edging, or  sewn entirely out of knit fabric with simple lace trim entirely around the legs. But, you can also edge these in fold over elastic, picot elastic, and while these are drafted for stretch knits, I’ve even made them with a silk charmeuse front!

Quick and Easy Directions for a Woven-Fabric Front.

If you want to use a woven fabric on the front I suggest using a light weight woven with a good bias stretch. Silk Charmeuse is ideal, but you could experiment with other fabrics too. I’d imagine a light flannel or lightweight cotton would work as well. Whatever you choose, the hip/back portion has to be sewn out of either stretch lace or stretch knit fabric.

All I do is fold my fabric at a 45 degree angle. This way you can place the “cut on fold” piece against the bias-fold. This is a quick and easy way to cut small bias cut pieces, without tracing the patter piece out mirrored.

You can purchase the Claudia Panties Here, or through my Etsy shop.

Tips and Tricks for Sewing Scalloped Lace

Lingerie, Sewing Patterns, Tutorial December 15, 2016

Lately I’ve become obsessed with scalloped lace. I’ve used a lot of it in my latest collection, and have a ton more lace on the way! I just love how pretty and delicate it is, while still being comfortable.

It can be tricky to find wide enough lace for panties or larger size bras. Here I’m going to outline a couple of tricks that I’ve learned along the way to make the most of what you’ve got on hand!

The first thing to be aware of is when you cut your scalloped lace, make sure you lay your lace out so that the scallops are evenly matched up. You want both sides of your panties or bra to be an exact mirror image of one another. When you sew your seams, the most important thing is to make sure that your scallops match up evenly. This may sometimes mean that your waist edge might be off a bit. Don’t worry – just focus on lining up the scalloped edge of your seam.

If your lace is a little too narrow for your panties pattern, you can easily piece the lace together to make up for the lack of width. Start by cutting out your pattern piece.

Grab a scrap piece of lace with a bit of scalloped edge. Layer it overtop of the too-short part so that the scallops overlap, kind of like a puzzle piece.

Use a zig-zag stitch to top stitch in place, then straighten out your edges.

Alternatively, you can use too-narrow lace as a design feature! You can create interesting “cut outs” by just working with the width of lace you have. Here, I’ve just left the scalloped edge of the lace in place, then extended my waist elastic overtop to create a “peekaboo” back.

Finding trimming lace to match can sometimes be a challenge, even for myself who has access to wholesale lace suppliers. If you need some trimming lace in the same colour as the lace for the body of your panties, just cut off some of the scalloped edge of your lace, and use it exactly as you would use a trim. Just zig-zag it on, and cut off any excess that extends beyond your zig-zag stitching. I’ve done that with this pretty purple thong.

If you are having trouble finding stretch lace at your local fabric stores, I highly recommend looking online. Below are a few of my favourite resources:

Tailor Made Shoppe

Lace Heaven

Bra Makers Supply 

 

 

Pattern Hack: Strappy / Sporty High Waist Bikini Part 1

swimwear, Tutorial July 14, 2016

StrappySporty

IMG_2024

Since moving to Washago, I’ve been spending a lot of time at the beach with Isabel, which means I need a few new bathing suits. I’ve always found it difficult finding RTW bathing suits, since I have a full bust and like a fit with a little more coverage so that I can, you know, actually swim. At the same time, I want something that looks awesome.

So, I made this suit a couple weeks ago and it has had a lot of wear already! I used the Amber Bra for the top and the Panties from my Cindy Pattern for the bottom – I like them because they have  high cut leg, which I find more flattering for my petite stature.

Aside from the patterns, you’ll need the following supplies:

  1. Swimwear Fabric -I used a print and a solid for binding
  2. Nylon swim lining
  3. 1/4″ elastic (you can use clear elastic)
  4. Twin Needle
  5. Two spools of thread
  6. 5/8″ (or larger) metal ring

StrappySportyMaterials

Directions:

  1. Cut the pattern out of your swim fabric & lining. Taper the Side Back down to a point.

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2. Baste the lining to the swimsuit front.

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3. Pin the side front swimsuit fabric to the front swimsuit along the curved seam and baste together (right sides facing). Flip over and pin the swimsuit lining along the curved seam of the front swimsuit, so that right sides of the lining are facing and stitch together. This creates a totally encased seam and anchors your lining so you don’t get slipping between the two layers. Repeat on opposite side. If you are feeling confident, this can all be done in one step.

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4. Cut a couple long lengths of your contrast fabric to create a binding. I cut two 2″ wide lengths (2″ by approximately 54″) and one 3″ wide length (3″ by approximately 30″) for my size small top.

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5.  With the right side of the binding facing the right side of the swimsuit top, baste binding along neckline using about a 1/2″ Seam Allowance. Gently pull on the binding to create a bit of tension to carefully contour the edge of the top.

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6. Load your sewing machine up with your twin needle and two spools of thread. Fold the binding towards the wrong side and top stitch in place using your twin needle. I do not double fold my swim biding. I just fold it back once and trim back the excess along the wrong side. This way is quick, easy, and less bulky.

twinneedle

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7. Trim the small strap tab back to a point. Apply the binding along the side in a the same manner as steps 5&6, but leave a 6″ long tail extending past the neckline. As in the previous step, fold the binding in half and use a twin needle to stop stitch. I do a single fold, then trim away the excess fabric.

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Extra Credit: add some stability and strength to your straps by wrapping the binding that forms your neck strap around a piece of elastic. I am heavy chested and always find stitches in my swimsuit straps pop! Adding clear swimwear elastic (or something heavier) will help. (I’m really sorry I didn’t take pictures of this part! the next step will give you some idea of what I mean)

8. Now we are going to create the strap details for the back. I’m adding elastic to mine for some strength and stability. This is optional – you may opt to just sew a traditional spaghetti style strap/tube. I created by straps by basting a length of elastic to the wrong side of a strip of my binding. I folded the binding 3 times to fully encase the elastic. Using a twin needle, I stitched down one edge, then simply trimmed back the excess. This is a quick and easy way. You may opt to double fold your binding, but I find it gets a little bulky. I then cut the strap into 4 lengths of 8″.

strap1

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strap6

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9. I used the wider piece of biding to for my band. In the exact same method as in previous steps, baste the binding onto the lower edge of the top, pulling on the binding as you go to contour the bottom of the top. Fold to desired width, and top stitch in place, trimming back the excess fabric once you are done. Leave approximately a 1″ tail on one end and a 4-5″ tail on the other.

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10. With the right sides together, pin and stitch band together.  Fold seam allowance to one side and top stitch down.

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11. Wrap ends of strap around your metal ring and stitch in place using a tight zig-zag stitch.

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12. Wrap one end of each of the 4 straps you made previously around the ring and stitch using a tight zig zag stitch. Pin the opposite end of each of the 4 straps evenly along the band. I used a tight zig-zag again to anchor them along the band.

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Last year I posted a video demonstrating how to apply swimsuit binding. You can view it HERE.  To add more stability to the edges of your suit, you can add clear swimsuit elastic. I didn’t have any on hand, so I omitted it, and so far have found it to be just fine!