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Make your own Surgical Pillow

Tutorial May 11, 2023

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Today marks 7 days since I had surgery! I’m just getting back to work today, even though my recovery has gone surprisingly smooth. I took a few days to just lay around, rest, go for leisurely walks… It was nice, but I’m glad to be getting back into the groove.

I had intended on posting this before my surgery but was running a little behind, as is my usual style! Anyway, better late than never!

The objective of a surgical pillow is to give you something to hold or brace yourself against after having surgery that involves incisions in the chest and abdomen. I would think that it could be helpful for recovering from anything from mastectomy to c-sections. It can be especially useful for in the car to prevent a seat belt from pressing against you, or for simply holding icepacks (this was amazing). I used mine in my first few days to keep my very snuggly toddler from accidentally bumping into me.

Pillows are one of the most basic things to sew. This surgical pillow is just a step up from your basic square or rectangular pillow. It’ll require sewing some curves, as well as adding optional pockets (I highly recommend), but overall it is a great beginner project.

Supplies Needed

Instructions

  1. Cut out a TWO rectangles approximately 38″ wide by 13″ tall.
  2. Using your marking pencil, draw a line 11″ in from each side.
  3. Create an armhole on either side

4. Cut out 2 optional pocket pieces that are approximately 12″x8″. Press raw edges under 1/2″ and top stitch the upper edge down.

5. Pin the pocket pieces onto each side of the pillow and top stitch in place. For the side that will sit against your chest, you may want to divide the pocket into two sections for ice packs.

You can divide the pocket into two sections by top stitching down the middle.

6. With the Pillow Pieces facing right sides together, stitch around the perimeter of the pillow, leaving three openings at the bottom (one on the left side, one in the middle and one on the right side). Clip corners and clip and slash curved portions.

7. Turn right side out and press flat.

8. Run a line of stitching on either side from top to bottom, about 1/2″ away from where the pillow begins to curve down. This divides the pillow into three sections.

9. Stuff the pillow with fibre fill.

10. Hand stitch the 3 openings closed.

This is just the quick and dirty. I’ve got a more thorough tutorial over on YouTube.

Cutting No-Shows and beginner tips

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized November 11, 2022

This post contains affiliate links. I may make a small commission on qualifying items purchased through affiliate links. Thank you for your support!

The Birch No Show Panties was a fun project for me because the techniques were something new! While the cut may be pretty classic, the sewing techniques were really different.

Because the No Show variation of these undies has no elastic you want to make sure it your cut edge is nice and clean. Normally, my go to for cutting is a good pair of scissors, but a rotary cutter is also an excellent way to get a clean cut.

I like this 18mm rotary cutter. It’s small and compact and is great for cutting around small pieces you often find with lingerie sewing patterns.

Don’t forget you’ll also need a cutting mat if you are new to rotary cutters!

The pattern as it prints is to be placed on the fold. I was able to cut through two layers with my rotary cutter. However, you may want to mirror your front and back pattern pieces if you find cutting through two layers of fabric is a little too tricky. I recently uploaded a video walking you through how to neatly cut your own pair of Birch No Show’s, but these tips and techniques will work for any no show garment.

Sew Your Own Felt Donut Pin Cushion

Tutorial, Uncategorized December 12, 2018

I made this happy little donut a couple of years ago around Valentines Day. Isabel was still in daycare and I wanted to make a little stuffy for each of her friends. So, I made some cute and cuddly donuts out of felt! They were so adorable and fun to make that I snuck in an extra one for myself to use as a pin cushion. I get so many comments and questions about this little guy whenever I post photos of him, so I am very excited to be offering a step-by-step tutorial and printable template today.

What You’ll Need

The supplies required are simple to find at most craft shops, or if you’re a craft-supply hoarder like me, you may have everything you need already in your stash. You can use acrylic craft felt, or if you can find it, wool felt is even nicer to work with and creates a bit of a finer finish. I particularly like the wool blend felt from Dandelion Fabrics. You will need to know how to do some basic embroidery stitches. If you’re not familiar with embroidery, don’t worry, I’ve included links to some helpful videos. And if all else fails, just wing it!

Here’s your shopping list:

  • 1 (8.5″x11″) square of brown or tan felt
  • 1 square of coloured felt for “frosting”
  • 1 small scrap of black felt for eyes
  • Polyester batting or other stuffing material (sawdust, fine sand, ground nut shells can all be used to stuff pin cushions)
  • Embroidery threads in black, white, brown and 3 colours for sprinkles
  • Donut template 
OLS_FreeDonutPinCushionTemplateDownload

Method

1.Begin by cutting out 2 Donut shapes out of brown or tan felt, and 1 Frosting shape out of colourful felt. Place the Frosting on top of one of the Donut shapes and using a straight stitch on your sewing machine, top stitch around the perimeter of the Frosting. Alternatively, you can use a needle and embroidery thread for a more decorative look. I opted to use my sewing machine for speed.

2. Cut small circles out of black felt for eyes and slightly larger circles out of pink felt for cheeks. If you are handy with an embroidery needle, you could skip these steps and just embroider a cute face. I’m not as confident with my embroidery skills as I am with my sewing skills, so I chose to do felt eyes and cheeks.

3. Stitch the cheeks in place first, then layer the black eye circles overlapping the cheeks. I chose to sew these on using my sewing machine, but a needle and thread will work just as well!

4. Using the white embroidery thread, sew a french knot in each eye to add a little “twinkle”. Using the black embroidery thread, use a Backstitch to create a little smile.

5.  Using your colourful embroidery thread, sew random “sprinkles” across the frosting. I used white, pink and blue for my sprinkles. It’s ok if it looks messy from the back. It will be hidden between the layers soon!

6. With the right sides of the donut facing each other, stitch the donut together around the outer perimeter using a narrow, 1/8″-ish seam allowance. Do not sew the donut “hole” and be sure to leave a 1.5″ gap so that we can stuff the donut in a later step!

7. Turn your donut right side out. Using the brown embroidery thread, use a Blanket Stitch to close up the donut hole.

8. Firmly stuff the donut the the filling of your choice. Once it is filled up nice and firm, use a needle and thread to stitch the opening closed.

Now you’re ready to admire your handiwork and fill it full of pins!

How to use Boning for Added Support in Bras

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Uncategorized November 8, 2018

One of the reasons I started making wire-free bras is because underwires, no matter what size I wear, end up giving me terrible chest and back pain by the end of the day. I just love the relaxed comfort of a soft bra.

That being said, sometimes you want to find ways to give your wire-free bras a little more structure. There are lots of different ways you can do this, from sewing them with wider band and strap elastic, to adding some light sew-in foam. Over the summer, I finally got around to experimenting with something I’ve been wanting to do for a while: adding boning to the sides of my Jasmine Bras.  Personally, I’m not a big fan of foam bras for myself. For me, a lightweight lace bra is my go-to, but I wanted to add a little more vertical structure.

What is boning?

Boning is best known for it’s use in corsetry, but it’s used in everything from longline bras to wedding dresses to swimwear! Basically, any garment where you need some vertical structure to prevent a garment from folding in on itself, OR when you want to create a garment that shapes the body, you’ll want to use boning.

There are a few different types of boning:

Rigelene / Sew-in boning – very lightweight plastic boning that can be sewn through and does not have a casing.

Plastic Boning – heavier than rigilene boning and often comes with a casing. Easy to cut and sew, but can form permanent bends when used in corsets or shaping garments.

Flat Spring Steel Boning – this boning is very rigid and great for use where a lot of vertical structure is needed, like on either side of corset laces.

Steel Spiral Boning – very flexible but strong steel boning made out of flattened coiled steel. This boning is great for use down side seams of corsets or structured evening dresses as it will bend around the curves of the waist and hips.

Although there are many ways to “install” boning, I usually like to use a casing. You can buy a tightly woven casing meant specifically for boning which I highly recommend using as it will prevent the bones from working their way through, but if you’re experimenting and are not ready to commit to purchasing supplies, bias or twill tape are good alternatives.

Most fabric stores will stock plastic and/or rigilene boning. You can find metal boning at larger bra and corset making supply shops, like Bra-Maker’s Supply.

For this particular bra, I used small pieces of Flat Spring Steel Boning and cotton bone casing, however I’ve made myself a couple of other bras using Plastic Boning that I like just as well. Truthfully, the bones are so small in this variation that either works well.

Installing the bones.

I assembled my Jasmine Bra in lace according to the pattern instructions.

Before finishing the seam allowance on the side seam and applying the upper elastic, stitch a length of bone casing to the seam allowance, along the side seam stitching line.

Trim back the seam allowance to approximately 1/4″.

Fold the casing down and top stitch in place along the opposite edge.

You now have a casing stitched to the bra side seam that will soon house your boning!

I decided to sew a second length of casing beside the side seam, running slightly on the diagonal. My goal  was to have it slightly follow the side of my breast.

Finish your upper edge according to the pattern instructions.

Measure out your boning so that it is at least 1″ shorter than the length of the casing. Remember, you need to leave enough room to stitch on the band elastic.

If you are using plastic boning, round off the ends of the boning and file down any rough or sharp bits. If you are using metal boning, finish the ends with metal boning tips. This will smooth out the ends of the boning so they won’t poke through.

Insert the bones into the casing, making sure you have left at least a 1″ gap at the bottom. From here, you can complete the assembly of the bra.

A very important note.

When you are ready to sew on your band elastic, please stitch very carefully past where your boning is. If you are using plastic boning, you may find that your sewing machine will just stitch through the boning, but if you have chosen metal, your sewing machine will spit needle shards at you.

Finishing Up.

Adding boning this way doesn’t change the overall look of the bra, but it does add some vertical structure which can help your bra stay more up-right while still being comfortable. Here’s another one I made, this time in a neutral beige lace (which had yet to have it’s straps sewn on). Leah thought it looked great! And honestly, it’s my current favourite bra.

 

How to add Cut & Sew Foam Padding to the Jasmine Bra (and more!)

Sewing Patterns, Tutorial, Videos September 20, 2017

Way back when, I wrote up a tutorial on padding the Jasmine Bra with balconette style pre-formed cups. Over the last few months, I’ve been experimenting with a new method, using cut and sew foam.

Cut and sew foam is available through most bra making suppliers. There are lots of options, but I recommend Bra Makers Supply in Canada or Arte Crafts in the US. Cut and sew foam is quite thin, maybe 1/8″ or so thick. It has some 2-way stretch. Adding foam to your soft bras will add a little bit of body and structure, as well as a little extra coverage if you are concerned about visible nipples. My personal preference is still for non-padded bras, but this is a nice option if the things above are of concern to you! Or, if you just want to try something new. I will say, I’ll be adding this to my bikini top sewing repertoire, but I’m still not sure padded bras are for me.

Aside from the foam, you won’t need any other special supplies – just what it outlines in the pattern for a lined bra.

Feeling cozy!

The method for assembling the bra with foam padding is essentially the same as a lined Jasmine. The main difference comes with how we will finish the interior seams.

Instructions:

Begin by cutting out your pieces. Cut the bra exactly as you normally would, but also cut out the cup pieces in cut and sew foam.

Place the Centre Front Self/Exterior pieces right side together, aligning the CF seam. Place a piece of foam over top of that, then the lining pieces with the right sides facing each other. Finish with the final piece of foam. Stitch together down the centre front seam.

Trim back both pieces of foam as close to the stitching line as possible.

Open the Front up, separating one half of the foam. With your fingers, press the seam allowance towards the foam.

Using a zig-zag stitch, top stitch the seam allowance to the foam. When your needle “zigs” to the left, it should just catch that little bit of foam left in your seam allowance. The idea here is to flatten the seam, and in addition, the zig-zag stitching almost acts as an understitch, helping the lining and exterior fabrics fall into place.

Trim back the seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and open the Centre Front pieces.

To assemble the rest of the cup, place the Side Front Self/Exterior against the Centre Front curved cup seam so that the right sides are facing. Place the Side Front foam against the wrong side of the Side Front Self. Flip the garment over, and then place the lining down the curved seam, sandwiching the Centre Front between the Side Front Self/Foam and Lining. Stitch together.

Once again, trim back both pieces of foam seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible.

Fold the seam allowance towards the Side Front Foam, pushing the Side Front self and lining towards the centre front.

Just like you did with the centre front seam. Zig zag stitch the seam allowance to the Side Front foam.

Trim back the remaining seam allowance as close to the stitching line as possible and flip the Side Front self and lining over the foam.

Attach your Back Band pieces as indicated in the pattern instructions and sew on the band elastic.  It is very important that you trim any excess fabric beyond your  band stitching line back to allow the bra to fold under properly.

Top stitch the band elastic in place. Be careful here, it gets quite thick. Go slowly and take your time! Finish the upper edge with Fold Over Elastic as outlined in the instructions, and complete the bra with a back closure and straps.

I would say this is more of an “advanced” tutorial. It can be quite tricky to get all of the layers to line up properly. That is definitely the most challenging part.  Getting the fit just right is also a little more of a challenge because the foam will limit the vertical stretch of the bra, which tends to be more of an issue for the DD+ crowd.

If you prefer video format, I’ve uploaded a quick tutorial on how to add foam padding to the Romy Bra:


… And how to add padding the the Lace Jasmine Variation!

Anouk Swimsuit Add-On Tutorial

New Items, Sewing Patterns, swimwear, Tutorial June 27, 2017

I’m in swimsuit mode this summer, despite the not-so-sunny weather. It’s been a pretty cool and really rainy summer so far, but I guess it’s still early!

I’ve just finished up a free add-on tutorial for my Anouk Bodysuit. This 25-page tutorial will show you how to sew the Anouk Bodysuit as a swimsuit! 

The tutorial includes instructions on how to sew a fully lined Anouk Swimsuit, with elastic stabilized bindings and straps.

This tutorial does not go over the ballet-wrap variation, but the technique is essentially the same – just instead of sewing a centre front seam, you finish the neckline edges with binding, then overlap down the centre front, just like directed in the Bodysuit Instructions.

There are also various ways you can tie the straps!

I really like the straps on this. I can’t wear halter straps – the weight of my boobs on my neck causes migraines. I know I’m not alone in this! This swimsuit eliminates that issue. You can criss-cross the straps in the back or front, or just do straight shoulder straps. They then connect at the centre back.

This swimsuit also has underbust elastic. I can’t wear a one piece without it, I just don’t find it comfortable. However, if you are more petite in the bust-area, you can omit that step!

This swimsuit utilizes similar techniques as my recent Cindy tutorial, so those videos make for a great reference, in addition to my tutorial.

You can download the tutorial Add-On HERE and you can purchase the Anouk Bodysuit Pattern HERE.

Valentine’s Sew Along: Assembling the Panties

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along January 19, 2017

Ok, I’m going to admit, this part can get a little confusing, which is why I’m doing it first.

Sequin fabric can be really scratchy, so my goal is to sew these with as clean a finish as possible. This means hiding as much of the seam allowance between the lining and sequin fabric as possible.

We’re going to start by sewing the gusset pretty much the same as in the pattern instructions. With the Panties Back sandwiched between the Lace Gusset Piece and Gusset Lining, stitch in place using a 1/2″ seam allowance. The Gusset should overhang the edge of the scalloped lace by about 1/4″.

Folding the gusset forward, so that the seam allowance is encased between the lining and lace layers, pin the sequin fabric along the straight edge of the gusset, going through both the lace and lining layers of the gusset. The right side of the sequin fabric should be facing the right side of your gusset. You can baste this here, or just flip it over, and pin the lining along that same seam. Stitch using your sewing machine or serger.

That part was do-able, right?

Here’s the tricky to explain part:

With the right sides together, baste the Sequin Panties Front to the Panties Back down the “side seam” (I put that in quotes because it’s not technically at the side, but this phrase will do). The mesh lining is left loose at this point! Make sure your sequin fabric overhangs the scalloped edge of the Panties Back by 1/4″. This is important for the next installment.

Now that the seam is basted together, working from the inside of the garment, take your mesh lining and twist it so that the right side of the fabric is facing the wrong side of the lace, and pin in place down that newly basted seam. Stitch using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Are you thoroughly confused?

I made a video to walk you through the process:

I would consider this an advanced technique, but in my opinion it’s a must-do for this style of panty. The video will show you how to sew the gusset, as well as both side seams so that the seam allowance is completely hidden between the lining and sequin fabric.

If you are really struggling with this method, just sew a regular seam. Treat the sequin fabric and lining as one, and pin it down the side seams so that the sequin fabric overhangs the scalloped edge by 1/4″, and finish with a zig-zag or serger.

In my opinion, this is the hardest part of the sew along, so once we’re done this, we’re in the clear!

Next up I’m going to show you how to finish the leg line with some elastic for stability, and how to finish the waist with fold over elastic.

Valentine’s Sew Along: Cutting Your Fabric

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along January 16, 2017

Now that we’ve gathered supplies, and prepared our patterns we can go ahead and cut into all of that pretty lace and sequin fabric.

Cut the sequin fabric is exactly the same as you would cut any other fabric. Fold it in half, and place your new upper front piece on the fold and cut 1. Be sure to use sharp scissors and be prepared to have sequins everywhere. You may not want to use your best fabric scissors to cut the sequin fabric, as the sequins can dull your scissors, but you still want to use a good, sharp pair. Remember to also cut your new upper front piece out of stretch mesh.

The ‘new’ lower-front piece gets cut out of the same lace you are using on the back of the panties. I folded my lace in half lengthways and cut 1 that way. Don’t forget to also use your Gusset Lining pattern piece with the additional 1/2″ seam allowance added to the upper edge to cut your lining – any cotton jersey will do.

The Claudia Panties Back get cut out exactly as indicated in in the pattern instructions, so that the straight lower edge is running along the scalloped edge.

In total, for the panties you should have the following pieces:

  1. Upper Front – Sequins
  2. Upper Front – Mesh
  3. Lower Front – Lace
  4. Gusset Lining – Cotton Jersey
  5. Panties Back – Lace

I’ve made a video showing you exactly how I cut out my stretch lace, so if you need a little more info, this is for you!

The Jasmine Bra gets cut the same as in the pattern instructions. We’ll be adding the longline band in a later step, so don’t worry about that part quite yet.

Here is a “how-to” video on how to place your Jasmine Pattern on scalloped lace.

Don’t forget to also cut the Jasmine Front and Side Front out of stretch mesh for lining.

The most important thing to remember when using scalloped lace is to make sure the motif is mirrored on either side. Take some extra time to make sure that when you fold your lace in order to cut 2 of each piece, that the scallops and motif of the lace all line up.

If you find that your lace is a little too short for the Panties Back, I’ve got some tips on how to make-do in a separate post, Tips & Tricks for Sewing Scalloped Lace.

Now it’s on to the fun stuff!

Valentine’s Sew Along: Preparing the Patterns

Tutorial, Valentine's Day Sew Along January 11, 2017

If you’ve ordered your supplies online and have to wait for them to arrive, now is a good time to print & assemble your patterns.

As a reminder, you’ll need the following patterns if you want to make a similar set:

  1. The Jasmine Bra
  2. The Claudia Panties
  3. Either the Mina or Cora Garter Belt Pattern (just a reminder that I have a FREE version of the Cora Tutorial in my shop right now).

You can buy these patterns individually, or as a complete Bundle. Just a reminder, they are also available on Etsy, if you prefer to shop there.

Print your patterns making sure that you have selected “no scaling” in your printer options. Measure the 1″x1″ square to make sure it has printed correctly.

I think I picked this tip up from Marie at A Stitching Odyssey, but a quick and easy way to trim the margins is to use a paper cutter. I can’t believe I didn’t think of this sooner… it has saved me so much time, and you can cut multiple pieces at once! My patterns come with a little scissor indicator showing you which margins to trim.

Once the appropriate margins are cut, you can tape your pages together, using the alpha-numeric indicators as a guide.

Cut out your pattern pieces in the size that closest corresponds to your body measurements. If you’re not sure how to measure, this infographic might help you out.

I highly, highly, highly recommend you sew your patterns up using some inexpensive test fabric first. You can even just use regular old knitted elastic on your mock-up, and jersey in place of the lace on the back of the panties. You’ll just want to see how the patterns fit your body.

The Jasmine Bra

If you are larger than a D-DD cup, you’re likely going to want to make some minor pattern alterations. My bust size has varied a lot over the last 3 years. I’ve had two pregnancies, one baby, gained 30 lbs, lost 40 lbs, started running, and started weight training. I’ve gone from a 30FF to a 30G during my pregnancy, and now I have no idea what my actual cup size is, but I know it’s somewhere below an F because none of my RTW bras fit anymore.

I’m going to show you what I do for my measurements.

I currently have a 36″ bust, and a 29″ band measurement. I cut out a size small. I draw in a slash line at the appropriate apex of the bust extending to the side seam, and the centre front seam. The apex is the “highest” point of the bust.

I cut along that line towards the Centre Front and Side seams.

From there, I open up the slash by about 1/2″, and retrace my pattern piece. I find this is all I need to get a great fit. You may want to add more or less. You may also want to add some depth to the curve if your bust projects a lot. This is why it’s really important to test out a bra pattern first. Breasts come in so many shapes and sizes, and they change constantly with the changes in our life, so what worked for you last year, might not work today.

Alternately, if you generally wear closer to an AA-A cup, you might need to straighten out the curved seams of the cup. This is super easy to do. You may want to also shorten the cup just a tad.

All of that being said, please don’t let this scare you off. This pattern is so forgiving. I recommend it for anyone who is just starting to get into lingerie making because the fit is generally quite easy to get!

The Claudia Panties

The front of the Claudia Panties is all one piece. I really love this pattern because it is so flattering and comfortable. But, I wanted to be able to add some sequin fabric to it, without the sequins scratching! I didn’t want the sequins to run as far as the gusset, because sequins between the legs doesn’t sound like a good time to me… so, I’m adding a horizontal seam to the Panties Front.

Here’s how I did that:

1.Place your Gusset Lining pattern piece overtop of the Panties Front and draw a line where the straight edge of the Gusset Lining falls on the Panties Front.

2. Cut the pattern along that line and trace them onto a separate piece of paper. Add 1/2″ seam allowance on either side of your cut line.

3. Add 1/2″ seam allowance along the straight edge of the Gusset Lining. I’m going to show you how to sew these so that all of the seam allowances are fully encased, so there are no scratchy bits!

Now that we’ve made the pattern alterations, store your pattern pieces away until your fabric arrives! I store my patterns in plastic sleeves in a binder.

If you’re fabric is already here (lucky), You can go ahead and cut out your pieces for your Jasmine Bra as indicated in the pattern instructions. I’ll show you how to cut the band in a later post.

Valentine’s Day Sew Along: It’s on!

Valentine's Day Sew Along January 8, 2017

OK!!! I’ve wanted to do this for a long time and I’m finally getting around to it; A Valentine’s Day Sew Along!

This sew along will go over three pieces, with some basic pattern alterations.

First we’re going to sew a Jasmine Bra. I’m sewing a scalloped lace version, and I’ll show you how to add a longline band.

Secondly, we’re going to sew a pair of Claudia Panties, with one pattern adjustment: adding a lined sequin panel on the front, with fully encased seams. This is a little tricky and does require some pattern-hacking, but I’m confident we can all rock our way through this!

Last, we’re going to sew one of two garter belts: The Mina Garterbelt (which, if you ask me, is the perfect garter belt), or my new FREE! Cora Garter Belt.

Version 1

I’ve created two different pattern bundles. Version 1 contains the Jasmine Bra, Claudia Panties, and Mina Garter Belt Pattern. These are basically all of my favourite patterns. You can purchase this bundle Here, or through my Etsy Shop.

Version 2

Version 2 contains the Jasmine Bra, Claudia Panties, and the FREE Cora Tutorial. You can purchase this bundle directly here, or through my Etsy shop.

I’ll be posting soon about the supplies we will need. I know some of you will need to order supplies on line, which will lead to some delay, but I’m going to start posting as soon as possible, since we have a lot to cover before Valentine’s day!

In the meantime, you can take 15% off all of my sewing patterns Here or through my Etsy Shop by using the coupon code BeMine. Offer expires January 16, 2017, so you have 1 week to purchase your patterns!